I have had a little experience with plastics and glues. From my
limited experience, two things may be of interest or may be
applicable:
1. Clean the plastic first.
Plastic is a petroleum material, and things tend to migrate toward
the surface. The whole idea behind Armour-All is that something
happens to the surface of plastic over time. It has been explained to
me that oils migrate outward, or maybe it is waxes, or I don't know
what. But I have had better experience in gluing things to plastic, or
in adhering tape or other self-stick things to plastic, by cleaning it
first. I use straight rubbing alcohol, and rub it thoroughly over the
surface, using a little elbow grease (figuratively). My goal is to
soak up any oily substances and get rid of them.
2. Heat.
I have a couple of sources on this. One is a company I was buying
printed plastic from. When I visited the factory, they showed me the
part on their assembly line where they zapped the plastic with
electricity. They explained that the electricity and the heat did
something to the surface that allowed the ink to adhere, otherwise it
just wouldn't stick. The other source was the local Plastic store,
which in Northern California is called TAP Plastics. They advise that
before gluing something to plastic you should heat the surface with a
butane torch until water sprayed onto it beads up, or something like
that. Look it up on-line. They have videos and directions. The heating
process is supposed to prepare the surface so their plastic cements
works best. I'm sure you could order some products from them if you
like their instructional videos.
3. Bracing
Gluing a tab onto something is a pretty insecure solution. You have
a very small cross section with which to count upon, and most likely
will be much less strong than the original intact plastic part. I have
a tab that I'm working on myself (for my car, actually), and I'm
trying to figure out a way to attach a section of a paperclip, which
will run the length of the tab, but will also extend far into the main
body of the plastic panel on both sides, and thus be a very strong
addition that will be much more strong than the original part. I'm
thinking I could cut a groove with my Dremel tool to lay the wire
into, but it's more intensive than I've had time to deal with. And how
do I end up securing the wire to the plastic plate? Perhaps drilling a
hole through it and tieing it off somehow. Suggestions accepted at
this point. But some sort of brace would be nice. What do people have
experience with? Perhaps using a zip-tie as a loop? something that
will hold, yet won't break easily.
On Jun 1, 8:35 pm, 01-ZR2 <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hello Dennis I had the same Problem. I use Permatex Plastic Welder
> that I bought at NAPA and have always had very good luck with it.
> Steve. (83 CB 550 SC Nighthawk)
> On Jun 1, 10:34 pm, "Dennis" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> > I managed to get too physical with my right side panel on my CB700SC this
> > afternoon and I broke the rear tab off. I can see it's been glued before.
> > I wanted to ask, before I tried to repair it, what folks think is the best
> > glue to use for this kind of repair?
>
> > Dennis Gallagher
> > - Seattle
> > - CB700SC - '85 & '86- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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