The cdi I opened is on my spare parts bike. It's not at home, for garage 
convenience. I will try to get it and take pictures next week end.
The face to drill is the opposite of the connector. It's thin plastic, so, 
drill a small hole with some swill knife, for exemple near upper face of 
the module, and then enlarge it with a box cutter. You will soon see the 
opposite edge of the printed circuit board. On my module, there was a big 
patch of some glue, which became solid with time, sticking this pcb to the 
center of one face (don't remember if it was upper or lower) of the module. 
I guess if the hole you drilled is large enough, you can look into it, then 
introduce a thin knife in it and sense for this glue, force the knife 
beetween the plastic cdi case and glue to separate them - like we open 
oysters here to eat them crude : silly french -. Then pushing on the pcb 
while forcing a knife / screwdriver beetween the connector base and the cdi 
case should allow to get the pcb out with it's connector without damage. On 
my module, knowing not how it was assembled, I pulled on the connector only 
and broke it's pins.


At 13:28 02/06/2009 -0700, you wrote:


>JPD - Thanks.
>
>I will try this because I think i can do it and then develope a BKM
>for others to use.
>
>To confirm, the face to drill a hole on is the side opposite the face
>the connectors are attached to, and center the hole on that panel. I'm
>assuming I should just break the surface because the board is close to
>the edge.
>
>At that point just figure out how to work the adhesive loose that
>holds the board in.
>
>Do you by any chance have any pictures of the internals of one? I did
>a web search but came up dry.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Paul
>
>On Jun 2, 1:46 am, [email protected] wrote:
> > Hi
> > There are two cdi models. One has four screws on the top and can be easily
> > opened. The other one is kina sealed : what you see on connector side is
> > the top of the connector, and if you pull on it, using a knife or
> > screwdriver inserted in the slot, you break the pins of this connector
> > soldered on the printed circuit board, itself glued to the internal face of
> > the module (old glue gets very solid). Only way to open it : drill/cut
> > carefully a 1/2" hole on the opposite face and, while pulling on the
> > connector, push on the edge of the pcb firmly to loosen the glue
> > attachment. After repair, stick something to close the hole.
> > Regards
> > JPD
> >
> > At 14:53 01/06/2009 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > >Hi, oh my poor Nighthawk.
> >
> > >Well i tried to start up this 83 NH 650 that i bought not running
> > >after 10yrs of stored in garge (allegedly it did not have any issues
> > >when stored dry w/o fuel) and found i have no spake on the the two
> > >center cylinders.
> >
> > >Swapping wires from the ingnition control module to the two coils
> > >shows the (one controls outer cylinders and one the inner cyclinders)
> > >shows the coils are good.  The pulse generators ohm out at the upper
> > >end of teh spec - roughly 360 ohms - so those seem to be ok.
> >
> > >The only thing left is the ignition control module that if the
> > >diagnosis is correct is providing the neccessare inputs to one coil
> > >and not the other.
> >
> > >Does this sound right?
> >
> > >These are pretty expensive - any ideas on where to find one other than
> > >Ebay?
> >
> > >Is there as way to repair these? (I was a reference to someone
> > >replacing the electolytic capacitors in one - but the unit looks
> > >seeled so not sure how to acccess these or even if it is possible.)
> >
> > >Anything else i should check (I've checked all connections and traced
> > >wires for continuity).
> >
> > >Thanks for any help.
> >
> > >Paul- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>



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