Success: Update on suspect CDI issue. Tonight before venturing into the CDI box with ambition of repairing, i figured i wanted to make absolutely sure i wasn't being stung by a high resistance connection.
The connector pins on the CDI sockets looked clean and so did the mating CDI cable connectors pins. Though to be sure, I cleaned the CDI pins with ultrafine steel wool wrapped around a cue-tip end and they came up rather shiny. I couldn't find something ideal to clean the CDI cable connector pins so i didn't clean those. I installed the connectors to the CDI 3x while wiggling side to side on the way in (trying to abrade the CDI cable pins - lot's of luck!). Upon first crank with the plugs laying on the valve covers I saw a single (1 only) spark to one of the inner plugs) during the intial crank and that was it - while the outer plugs fired as normal (hmmmmm). Stopped turned over again - no sparkies to center two plugs. So I twisted the connectors in the CDI sockets off to the side, turned it over and sprarkies now to all 4 plugs. So I think i was stung by a very sublte corrosion on the connectors that i would have never suspected. I suppose they build up an oxide (guessing) just from sitting in the air. So that was a relief - CDI issue solved. No onto the next problem - it started up fine but ran at bit of a high idle (i just replaced the fuel connector orings in all 4 carbs, cleaned the bowles which were very clean and reinstalled the rack with all synching screws bask to the original position), but then the idle rpm began to increase to 2 or 3k at which time i shut it down. So that seems to be my next endeaver (history is this bike hadn't been run for 10 yrs). Thanks for all your help in this, I sort of feel silly that it was corrosion, but I sure learned a valuable lesson on the deceptiveness of corrosion issues. I hope others can benefit from this learng. Paul G. On Jun 3, 3:26 am, [email protected] wrote: > The cdi I opened is on my spare parts bike. It's not at home, for garage > convenience. I will try to get it and take pictures next week end. > The face to drill is the opposite of the connector. It's thin plastic, so, > drill a small hole with some swill knife, for exemple near upper face of > the module, and then enlarge it with a box cutter. You will soon see the > opposite edge of the printed circuit board. On my module, there was a big > patch of some glue, which became solid with time, sticking this pcb to the > center of one face (don't remember if it was upper or lower) of the module. > I guess if the hole you drilled is large enough, you can look into it, then > introduce a thin knife in it and sense for this glue, force the knife > beetween the plastic cdi case and glue to separate them - like we open > oysters here to eat them crude : silly french -. Then pushing on the pcb > while forcing a knife / screwdriver beetween the connector base and the cdi > case should allow to get the pcb out with it's connector without damage. On > my module, knowing not how it was assembled, I pulled on the connector only > and broke it's pins. > > At 13:28 02/06/2009 -0700, you wrote: > > > > >JPD - Thanks. > > >I will try this because I think i can do it and then develope a BKM > >for others to use. > > >To confirm, the face to drill a hole on is the side opposite the face > >the connectors are attached to, and center the hole on that panel. I'm > >assuming I should just break the surface because the board is close to > >the edge. > > >At that point just figure out how to work the adhesive loose that > >holds the board in. > > >Do you by any chance have any pictures of the internals of one? I did > >a web search but came up dry. > > >Thanks, > > >Paul > > >On Jun 2, 1:46 am, [email protected] wrote: > > > Hi > > > There are two cdi models. One has four screws on the top and can be easily > > > opened. The other one is kina sealed : what you see on connector side is > > > the top of the connector, and if you pull on it, using a knife or > > > screwdriver inserted in the slot, you break the pins of this connector > > > soldered on the printed circuit board, itself glued to the internal face > > > of > > > the module (old glue gets very solid). Only way to open it : drill/cut > > > carefully a 1/2" hole on the opposite face and, while pulling on the > > > connector, push on the edge of the pcb firmly to loosen the glue > > > attachment. After repair, stick something to close the hole. > > > Regards > > > JPD > > > > At 14:53 01/06/2009 -0700, you wrote: > > > > >Hi, oh my poor Nighthawk. > > > > >Well i tried to start up this 83 NH 650 that i bought not running > > > >after 10yrs of stored in garge (allegedly it did not have any issues > > > >when stored dry w/o fuel) and found i have no spake on the the two > > > >center cylinders. > > > > >Swapping wires from the ingnition control module to the two coils > > > >shows the (one controls outer cylinders and one the inner cyclinders) > > > >shows the coils are good. The pulse generators ohm out at the upper > > > >end of teh spec - roughly 360 ohms - so those seem to be ok. > > > > >The only thing left is the ignition control module that if the > > > >diagnosis is correct is providing the neccessare inputs to one coil > > > >and not the other. > > > > >Does this sound right? > > > > >These are pretty expensive - any ideas on where to find one other than > > > >Ebay? > > > > >Is there as way to repair these? (I was a reference to someone > > > >replacing the electolytic capacitors in one - but the unit looks > > > >seeled so not sure how to acccess these or even if it is possible.) > > > > >Anything else i should check (I've checked all connections and traced > > > >wires for continuity). > > > > >Thanks for any help. > > > > >Paul- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
