Doesn't anybody use Cramolin ? The De-Oxit paste is great stuff. --- On Thu, 6/4/09, Creative Residential Designs <[email protected]> wrote:
From: Creative Residential Designs <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83 NightHawk 650 no spark on center two cylinders To: [email protected] Date: Thursday, June 4, 2009, 12:21 AM I cleaned and checked my connectors when I was last behind my headlight too. I found one that was cutting the power off to my gauges occasionally, cleaned, reconnected it and it was a done deal. Sometimes it is the simple things on these bikes. I always start with those easy things first. Too high an idle? Adjust the idle screw between the carbs on the bottom so that when your Hawk is warm it idles between 1200 and 1300 RPM. Once you dial these bikes in right they are addictive and way too much fun! Keep us informed. HotrodMamma. ----- Original Message ----- From: "oldschoolgwin" <[email protected]> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 10:01 PM Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83 NightHawk 650 no spark on center two cylinders Success: Update on suspect CDI issue. Tonight before venturing into the CDI box with ambition of repairing, i figured i wanted to make absolutely sure i wasn't being stung by a high resistance connection. The connector pins on the CDI sockets looked clean and so did the mating CDI cable connectors pins. Though to be sure, I cleaned the CDI pins with ultrafine steel wool wrapped around a cue-tip end and they came up rather shiny. I couldn't find something ideal to clean the CDI cable connector pins so i didn't clean those. I installed the connectors to the CDI 3x while wiggling side to side on the way in (trying to abrade the CDI cable pins - lot's of luck!). Upon first crank with the plugs laying on the valve covers I saw a single (1 only) spark to one of the inner plugs) during the intial crank and that was it - while the outer plugs fired as normal (hmmmmm). Stopped turned over again - no sparkies to center two plugs. So I twisted the connectors in the CDI sockets off to the side, turned it over and sprarkies now to all 4 plugs. So I think i was stung by a very sublte corrosion on the connectors that i would have never suspected. I suppose they build up an oxide (guessing) just from sitting in the air. So that was a relief - CDI issue solved. No onto the next problem - it started up fine but ran at bit of a high idle (i just replaced the fuel connector orings in all 4 carbs, cleaned the bowles which were very clean and reinstalled the rack with all synching screws bask to the original position), but then the idle rpm began to increase to 2 or 3k at which time i shut it down. So that seems to be my next endeaver (history is this bike hadn't been run for 10 yrs). Thanks for all your help in this, I sort of feel silly that it was corrosion, but I sure learned a valuable lesson on the deceptiveness of corrosion issues. I hope others can benefit from this learng. Paul G. On Jun 3, 3:26 am, [email protected] wrote: > The cdi I opened is on my spare parts bike. It's not at home, for garage > convenience. I will try to get it and take pictures next week end. > The face to drill is the opposite of the connector. It's thin plastic, so, > drill a small hole with some swill knife, for exemple near upper face of > the module, and then enlarge it with a box cutter. You will soon see the > opposite edge of the printed circuit board. On my module, there was a big > patch of some glue, which became solid with time, sticking this pcb to the > center of one face (don't remember if it was upper or lower) of the > module. > I guess if the hole you drilled is large enough, you can look into it, > then > introduce a thin knife in it and sense for this glue, force the knife > beetween the plastic cdi case and glue to separate them - like we open > oysters here to eat them crude : silly french -. Then pushing on the pcb > while forcing a knife / screwdriver beetween the connector base and the > cdi > case should allow to get the pcb out with it's connector without damage. > On > my module, knowing not how it was assembled, I pulled on the connector > only > and broke it's pins. > > At 13:28 02/06/2009 -0700, you wrote: > > > > >JPD - Thanks. > > >I will try this because I think i can do it and then develope a BKM > >for others to use. > > >To confirm, the face to drill a hole on is the side opposite the face > >the connectors are attached to, and center the hole on that panel. I'm > >assuming I should just break the surface because the board is close to > >the edge. > > >At that point just figure out how to work the adhesive loose that > >holds the board in. > > >Do you by any chance have any pictures of the internals of one? I did > >a web search but came up dry. > > >Thanks, > > >Paul > > >On Jun 2, 1:46 am, [email protected] wrote: > > > Hi > > > There are two cdi models. One has four screws on the top and can be > > > easily > > > opened. The other one is kina sealed : what you see on connector side > > > is > > > the top of the connector, and if you pull on it, using a knife or > > > screwdriver inserted in the slot, you break the pins of this connector > > > soldered on the printed circuit board, itself glued to the internal > > > face of > > > the module (old glue gets very solid). Only way to open it : drill/cut > > > carefully a 1/2" hole on the opposite face and, while pulling on the > > > connector, push on the edge of the pcb firmly to loosen the glue > > > attachment. After repair, stick something to close the hole. > > > Regards > > > JPD > > > > At 14:53 01/06/2009 -0700, you wrote: > > > > >Hi, oh my poor Nighthawk. > > > > >Well i tried to start up this 83 NH 650 that i bought not running > > > >after 10yrs of stored in garge (allegedly it did not have any issues > > > >when stored dry w/o fuel) and found i have no spake on the the two > > > >center cylinders. > > > > >Swapping wires from the ingnition control module to the two coils > > > >shows the (one controls outer cylinders and one the inner cyclinders) > > > >shows the coils are good. The pulse generators ohm out at the upper > > > >end of teh spec - roughly 360 ohms - so those seem to be ok. > > > > >The only thing left is the ignition control module that if the > > > >diagnosis is correct is providing the neccessare inputs to one coil > > > >and not the other. > > > > >Does this sound right? > > > > >These are pretty expensive - any ideas on where to find one other > > > >than > > > >Ebay? > > > > >Is there as way to repair these? (I was a reference to someone > > > >replacing the electolytic capacitors in one - but the unit looks > > > >seeled so not sure how to acccess these or even if it is possible.) > > > > >Anything else i should check (I've checked all connections and traced > > > >wires for continuity). > > > > >Thanks for any help. > > > > >Paul- Hide quoted text - > > > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
