Where's the best place to get some? I'll stock it!
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Hammerl
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 10:38 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83 NightHawk 650 no spark on center two
cylinders
Doesn't anybody use Cramolin ? The De-Oxit paste is great stuff.
--- On Thu, 6/4/09, Creative Residential Designs
<[email protected]> wrote:
From: Creative Residential Designs <[email protected]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83 NightHawk 650 no spark on center
two cylinders
To: [email protected]
Date: Thursday, June 4, 2009, 12:21 AM
I cleaned and checked my connectors when I was last behind my
headlight too.
I found one that was cutting the power off to my gauges occasionally,
cleaned, reconnected it and it was a done deal. Sometimes it is the
simple
things on these bikes. I always start with those easy things first.
Too high
an idle? Adjust the idle screw between the carbs on the bottom so
that when
your Hawk is warm it idles between 1200 and 1300 RPM. Once you dial
these
bikes in right they are addictive and way too much fun! Keep us
informed.
HotrodMamma.
----- Original Message -----
From: "oldschoolgwin" <[email protected]>
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]>
Sent: Wednesday, June 03, 2009 10:01 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 83 NightHawk 650 no spark on center
two
cylinders
Success: Update on suspect CDI issue.
Tonight before venturing into the CDI box with ambition of repairing,
i figured i wanted to make absolutely sure i wasn't being stung by a
high resistance connection.
The connector pins on the CDI sockets looked clean and so did the
mating CDI cable connectors pins. Though to be sure, I cleaned the
CDI pins with ultrafine steel wool wrapped around a cue-tip end and
they came up rather shiny. I couldn't find something ideal to clean
the CDI cable connector pins so i didn't clean those. I installed the
connectors to the CDI 3x while wiggling side to side on the way in
(trying to abrade the CDI cable pins - lot's of luck!).
Upon first crank with the plugs laying on the valve covers I saw a
single (1 only) spark to one of the inner plugs) during the intial
crank and that was it - while the outer plugs fired as normal
(hmmmmm). Stopped turned over again - no sparkies to center two
plugs. So I twisted the connectors in the CDI sockets off to the
side, turned it over and sprarkies now to all 4 plugs.
So I think i was stung by a very sublte corrosion on the connectors
that i would have never suspected. I suppose they build up an oxide
(guessing) just from sitting in the air.
So that was a relief - CDI issue solved.
No onto the next problem - it started up fine but ran at bit of a high
idle (i just replaced the fuel connector orings in all 4 carbs,
cleaned the bowles which were very clean and reinstalled the rack with
all synching screws bask to the original position), but then the idle
rpm began to increase to 2 or 3k at which time i shut it down. So
that seems to be my next endeaver (history is this bike hadn't been
run for 10 yrs).
Thanks for all your help in this, I sort of feel silly that it was
corrosion, but I sure learned a valuable lesson on the deceptiveness
of corrosion issues. I hope others can benefit from this learng.
Paul G.
On Jun 3, 3:26 am, [email protected] wrote:
> The cdi I opened is on my spare parts bike. It's not at home, for
garage
> convenience. I will try to get it and take pictures next week end.
> The face to drill is the opposite of the connector. It's thin
plastic, so,
> drill a small hole with some swill knife, for exemple near upper
face of
> the module, and then enlarge it with a box cutter. You will soon
see the
> opposite edge of the printed circuit board. On my module, there was
a big
> patch of some glue, which became solid with time, sticking this pcb
to the
> center of one face (don't remember if it was upper or lower) of the
> module.
> I guess if the hole you drilled is large enough, you can look into
it,
> then
> introduce a thin knife in it and sense for this glue, force the
knife
> beetween the plastic cdi case and glue to separate them - like we
open
> oysters here to eat them crude : silly french -. Then pushing on
the pcb
> while forcing a knife / screwdriver beetween the connector base and
the
> cdi
> case should allow to get the pcb out with it's connector without
damage.
> On
> my module, knowing not how it was assembled, I pulled on the
connector
> only
> and broke it's pins.
>
> At 13:28 02/06/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>
> >JPD - Thanks.
>
> >I will try this because I think i can do it and then develope a BKM
> >for others to use.
>
> >To confirm, the face to drill a hole on is the side opposite the
face
> >the connectors are attached to, and center the hole on that panel.
I'm
> >assuming I should just break the surface because the board is
close to
> >the edge.
>
> >At that point just figure out how to work the adhesive loose that
> >holds the board in.
>
> >Do you by any chance have any pictures of the internals of one? I
did
> >a web search but came up dry.
>
> >Thanks,
>
> >Paul
>
> >On Jun 2, 1:46 am, [email protected] wrote:
> > > Hi
> > > There are two cdi models. One has four screws on the top and
can be
> > > easily
> > > opened. The other one is kina sealed : what you see on
connector side
> > > is
> > > the top of the connector, and if you pull on it, using a knife
or
> > > screwdriver inserted in the slot, you break the pins of this
connector
> > > soldered on the printed circuit board, itself glued to the
internal
> > > face of
> > > the module (old glue gets very solid). Only way to open it :
drill/cut
> > > carefully a 1/2" hole on the opposite face and, while pulling
on the
> > > connector, push on the edge of the pcb firmly to loosen the glue
> > > attachment. After repair, stick something to close the hole.
> > > Regards
> > > JPD
>
> > > At 14:53 01/06/2009 -0700, you wrote:
>
> > > >Hi, oh my poor Nighthawk.
>
> > > >Well i tried to start up this 83 NH 650 that i bought not
running
> > > >after 10yrs of stored in garge (allegedly it did not have any
issues
> > > >when stored dry w/o fuel) and found i have no spake on the the
two
> > > >center cylinders.
>
> > > >Swapping wires from the ingnition control module to the two
coils
> > > >shows the (one controls outer cylinders and one the inner
cyclinders)
> > > >shows the coils are good. The pulse generators ohm out at the
upper
> > > >end of teh spec - roughly 360 ohms - so those seem to be ok.
>
> > > >The only thing left is the ignition control module that if the
> > > >diagnosis is correct is providing the neccessare inputs to one
coil
> > > >and not the other.
>
> > > >Does this sound right?
>
> > > >These are pretty expensive - any ideas on where to find one
other
> > > >than
> > > >Ebay?
>
> > > >Is there as way to repair these? (I was a reference to someone
> > > >replacing the electolytic capacitors in one - but the unit
looks
> > > >seeled so not sure how to acccess these or even if it is
possible.)
>
> > > >Anything else i should check (I've checked all connections and
traced
> > > >wires for continuity).
>
> > > >Thanks for any help.
>
> > > >Paul- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
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