Yes, probably your stator is to rewire. If you want to save $$$, you can check the three phased windings (yellow wires) : they are probably OK. The most critical winding in this stator is the excitator winding (black / white wires). You will probably find that it has 2 or 3 Ohms resistance, which means that it is fried, and the three phased windings are OK. In that case you don't need to rewire the three phased winding.
You can ask two things to the professionnal who rewires : 1 - Put the best quality wire, in the same gauge. Taking a high quality insulated wire allows to gain 10 to 20 centigrades in temperature inside the winding without burning the insulation coating. 2 - Go one gauge towards thinner wire. For example if this winding is in gauge 20 wires, go to 21. This will cause your bike to begin charging at ~1500 rpm instead of 1200. You will have to know it and avoid riding for long rides in 6th gear at low speed / low rpms. Usually, with this type of bike, most riders like to go in the rpms, where the engine gets brillant, so it's not a real drawback. If you have some hand skills and electricity equipment, you can try to rewire yourself this winding. Not so difficult. Now, once your stator rewired, check carefully your regulator. Yes the oem Shindengen model has no protection against over current. It can be fried, since the excitator winding of your stator is fried, and in that case, it is probably fried in short circuit of the output transistor, which means that you have no regulation at all. If you ride a while in this situation, you can fry your battery (it boils, it can explode...), or you can fry again your stator. Usually, owners who enter this deadly circle sell the bike. Perhaps you bought such a bike... Good luck. It could be a good thing to change the regulator anyway. In that case I recommend NOT to buy an used regulator in a junkyard, but buy an Electrex or Electrosport regulator : modern, self protected against over current / overheating. This will anyway save money against a new Shindengen regulator bought at a Honda dealer (if he finds one...) ! In case your stator is rewired to the original spec, I recommend to replace the H4 lamp by a LED compatible light. It allows you to ride at day (not at night). Usually OK for summer. And if you want to use the bike at night, change the bulb (could be a good deal in winter). The reason ? In winter, air temperature gets colder and you are less subject to fry again your stator : it happens usually on warm summer days. On my 650 CBX (NH), I changed also the turn indicators and rear light for LEDs. I rode it on long rides this summer, on 38°C days, with an original spec stator, and no problem. At 07:58 07/09/2009 -0700, you wrote: >i have a 1983 nighthawk cb650 ,i have a new battery.but everytime i >charge it go for a long ride come back turn off the bike try to turn >it back on...battery is dead.all trough the ride i was able to to >start it 3-4 times.i checked it with a metter by putting the red on >the positive on the battery and black on the negative side of the >battery and it reads 11.80...but when i rev it it goes up to >12.3..after the ride it read 9.8 and dropping.whta could it be do.do i >have to chang my alternator. > > --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected] To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
