Looks like my local Honda dealer doesn't have access to them. Does anyone sell aftermarket bushings in case i can't get the OEM's?
The exising part has #46301 on it but that doesn't match the Honda P/ N. Maybe it's an aftermarket replacement? Thanks. On Jan 1, 7:15 am, Kim Paddock <[email protected]> wrote: > I got a set of bushings from BikeBandit.com. They are not easy to find. > HotrodMamma. > > ________________________________ > From: Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Sent: Fri, January 1, 2010 1:35:10 AM > Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork seals part 2: slider bushing > > At 45K, I'd just replace the bushings and be done with it. Lots of wear in > that time. The chrome will outlast the bushings. Knurl ? I wouldn't as long > as I can get new. The tubes spend most of their working life at a position > about half way down. I hold them and flex with my hands. No allowable > movement. At .007" they would "clink". The stress is from braking flexing the > fork backwards under heavy load. That's when there is a lot of wear. Did I > mention I do this without the springs in ? Consider how short the contact > length is (bushing) to keep all this in alignment. Just make sure the bushing > is seated when checking for play. > > --- On Fri, 1/1/10, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > > >From: oldschoolgwin > > <[email protected]> > >Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Fork seals part 2: slider bushing > >To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > >Date: Friday, January 1, 2010, 1:46 AM > > >Dennis, > > >The bike has about 45k miles currently. It was a one owner bike before > >i got it earlier this year - kept in the garage all its life - the PO > >took care of it but didn't do his own maintenance. I''m sure the seals > >had been replace before - not sure abou the bushings. > > >The steps i followed were your older posts on the steps (thanks). > >1. Removed wheel, etc > >2. Loosened fork tube caps > >3. Loosened bottom fork bolt > >4. Removed springs > >5. Drained fluid > >6. Dissassembled all components > >7. Cleaned all comps in solvent > >8. Assembled fork tube into slider > >9. Installed upper slider bushing > >Halted on installing seal and remainder due to fork play. > > >The way i > > measured the fork tube / bushing clearance is collapsing the > >fork tube in the slider all the way (clamped in vise), then measure > >the total horizontal movement of the tube with respect to the fork > >slider at the slider bushing location which indicates the diametric > >clearance in the installed condition. > > >If the tube was compressed half way and the measured (assuming the > >fork tube is constant diameter - no wear marks) it should have the > >same clearance. > > >So what would be the movement at the end of the fork tube when the > >fork tube is collapsed 50% into the slider: similar triangles applies > >it should be about 0.021" at teh end of the fork tube. > > >I removed the bushing - the inside is completely teflon coated (no > >copper showing - no scoring whatsoever). The outside of the bushing is > >about 80% copper showing (looks as if the outside was copper plated > >and some copper was worn away). I don't think the outside > > has > >material worn away from it as it is essentially static while it is > >seated in the fork slider and it's th inside of the bushing that is > >the sliding or wearing surface. The outside of the bushing looks like > >it was ground to that condition after the teflon coating process. > > >Does the bushing sound like it isn't worn based on full teflon inside? > >Maybe Honda just has a loose tolerance in this design? > > >If the clearance is of concern I could slightly knurl the outside of > >the bushing and that would take up a few thousands in a heat beat. > > >On Dec 31, 9:47 pm, Dennis Hammerl <[email protected]> wrote: > >> This bike has how many miles ? Did you remove the tubes from the bottoms ? > >> It's easy enough to slide off the syntalic bushings and look at them. If > >> they show scuffing or scarring, it's time to replace. No, there > > is no spec. .007" is a ton. Is that at full extension ? That isn't a good > > check. Half way is. Now I do it by feel but I expect that less than .003" > > is more like it. May ask a polite question ? Would you be so kind as to > > take us step by step through what you have done (method) and how ? I've > > written several times about fork seal replacement and I'm starting to > > wonder how you went about it. I'd just like to get on the same page. I had > > techs in Florida that could do the job without removing the tubes from the > > bike and didn't take off the caps. That's a bizarre method but it can be > > done. (flat rate breeds all manner of things) They'd take off the caps to > > change oil or springs. > > >> --- On Thu, 12/31/09, oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> wrote: > > >> From: oldschoolgwin <[email protected]> > >> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Fork seals part 2: slider bushing > >> To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> > >> Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 10:20 PM > > >> Fork seals part 2: now that the 6hr fork tube cover bolt saga is over; > > >> Ok - I cleaned every thing up real nice and assembled back togther to > >> see how it all feels. > > >> Results of the wiggle test: With the slider bushing installed (fork > >> seal NOT installed) i get precisely 0.007" (.2mm) movement (as > >> measured with a dial indicator) of the fork tube inside the slider > >> bushing when the fork tube collapsed all the way. It feels like more > >> than 0.007" but as measured thats all > > it is. > > >> It felt tight before taking it apart. I specifically checked how it > >> felt as i didn't want to find a sloppy fork. I suspect the before/aft > >> difference is the oil seal / dust seal is not installed and no oil > >> film in between the slider bushing. > > >> Is this normal or does this mean the slider bushing is worn and needs > >> replacing (there is not a spec in the OEM manual for slop assembled)? > > >> Thoughts? > > >> Thanks, > > >> Paul > > >> -- > > >> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > >> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > >> To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > >> [email protected]. > >> For more options, visit this group > >> athttp://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > >-- > > >You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > >"Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > >To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > >To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > >[email protected]. > >For more options, visit this group > >athttp://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > [email protected]. > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. 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