+1 to each of the above. Use the dowel method (or my favorite, a monster
screwdriver that you put the bit-end to the engine and that nice hard
plastic rounded handle against your ear, blocks out other sounds and really
clarifies the noises up the shaft) to figure out a ballpark location for the
noise, and also it's character: clacking, knocking, ringing,
tinging/pinging, clatter, that sort of thing.
If it's clear enough to record, an audio sample can't hurt. *nerd-out* :D
For only $350 I'd jump on it. Even if you have to spend $1k to completely
strip and rebuild the engine, you're still ahead if the rest of it is in
that great a condition ("near mint"). At best you're probably looking at
something that needs a good clean-out and some riding, maybe a valve
adjustment (bucket shims on the 550s, right?). At worst you're looking at a
lower-end bearing that wants to give up the ghost, which if you catch it
early enough is EASY to fix (but make sure you clean up whatever is making
it throw in the towel!).
-Kurt
On Fri, May 13, 2011 at 11:37 AM, Allen Thomas <[email protected]>wrote:
> In my experience valve issues make ticking sounds, wrist pins make a double
> claking noise, lower rod bearings make a knock. Use a stethoscope or a
> wooden dowl pressed to you're head just above the ear to determine location
> of the noise.
> Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
>
>
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