depending on what and where it needs welding they might be able to do it in
with everything in place.. i would recomend just taking them the rack first
and checking there quality of work and price... hopefully you dont have any
actual frame cracks...



On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 10:18 AM, Matt Temple <[email protected]> wrote:

> Paul,
>
> Thanks, that all sounds important.   Here's a question, since I've
> never had any frame
> welding done -- can welding be done without removing /everything/ from
> the bike -- I guess
> I'm asking if I have to give them a naked frame.   Or can they do this
> on a bike where, say
> the tank is removed, etc.?   I"ll check the alternator rotor.   It's
> interesting that my CX500
> is very buzzy at speed, and my NH feels very, very smooth, but more
> things seem to come
> loose.   The CX500 really feels built like a tank.
>
> Matt
>
> On May 27, 10:06 am, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote:
> > in that case yes loc-tite will work for you. i would sugest finding a
> local
> > wend shop to clean and re-weld all the cracked welds.. if they havent
> faild
> > yet they will eventually (usualy at the worst possible moment). the alt
> > roter can get loose and honda used to recomend taking it off and rotating
> it
> > 180 degrees and re torquing it.. also the motor mounts.. those welds
> crack
> > due to vibrations, and thats caused by the engine... if it is loose and
> has
> > more wwiggle room thats more mass dynamic to throw around and do bad
> > stuff...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 9:58 AM, Matt Temple <[email protected]>
> wrote:
> > > Thanks, Paul.   That's all good advice   ... the weld problem is just
> > > specifically on
> > > the tab that's part of the luggage rack.   The other loosening screw
> > > problem is also
> > > related the the rack.   The picture I put in hides the problem.   The
> > > "c" bracket
> > > (black "c" or maybe "u" shaped bracket) -- has a drilled hole on
> > > either side.   One side
> > > is attached to the luggage rack, the other side attaches via a screw
> > > hole in the frame.
> > > The bolt head that is facing down in the picture isn't part of it.
> > > The screw I'm talking about
> > > is hidden and screwed in horizontally from right to left, into the
> > > frame of the NH.   That's the
> > > screw that comes loose -- you can't put a nut behind it.   Is there
> > > still a product
> > > called LockTite or something like that?
> >
> > > There is a small amount of rust in the welds on many parts of the
> > > frame.   I suppose I should
> > > get those cleaned and repaint.   Still not bad for 26 years.   Scoring
> > > the tank was quite a coup
> > > for me.   I do have another tank in excellent condition (no dents,
> > > dings) that I've smoothed and
> > > sanded.   I was going to repaint when this one appeared on eBay last
> > > year.
> >
> > > On May 27, 9:30 am, paul annen <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > > a few things to check... check your alternator roater is tight, and
> re
> > > > tighten all of your engine mounting bolts.... that should help with
> > > failing
> > > > welds (cause, not symptom)... and as far as the bolts getting loose
> on
> > > > you... a nylon insert stop nut (i always call them nylocks) would be
> the
> > > > best thing to put in...
> >
> > > > and sea foam too,,, (J/K)
> >
> > > > On Fri, May 27, 2011 at 9:18 AM, Matt Temple <[email protected]>
> > > wrote:
> > > > > It's so '80s!   Quite a step in that seat.   How does it ride?   (I
> > > > > had a 1967 CB450, but it doesn't look related -- that was
> > > > > DOHC.)
> >
> > > > > The rack is kind of interesting.   It's another way in which the
> > > > > universal KG racks were adapted to fit almost every
> > > > > Japanese (and other) bikes.     I have exactly the same rack on my
> > > > > CX500, and when I got the Nighthawk, I removed the
> > > > > sissy bar from the CX500's rack and put it on the Nighthawks.
> There
> > > > > is more than one way this rack is supported, since
> > > > > there's really no good way to provide support at the back of the
> > > > > fender.   I put in a link to a picture of the C-shaped
> > > > > support -- I can't remember how I got it anymore -- I'm sure it was
> > > > > from eBay and it may have been that this rack
> > > > > came off another Nighthawk.   You can see, also, that over time,
> the
> > > > > spot-welded tab on the rack is starting to
> > > > > separate -- I guess I need a welder.   There is a threaded screw
> hole
> > > > > on the frame of the NH that this connects to, but
> > > > > I've always had problems with vibration loosening the screw.
> Maybe
> > > > > I"ll post a general question to the group for what they
> > > > > use to keep screw from loosening -- lock washer doesn't help.
> Here
> > > > > it is:
> >
> > > > >
> http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff506/heuristik/My%2085%20Nightha.
> > > ..
> >
> > > > > On May 25, 11:37 pm, [email protected] wrote:
> > > > > > That is the perfect NH in My Book . Nice screen & luggage rack
> > > > > > Here's My War Hoarse
> > > > > > BernMan550
> >
> > > > > > On 05/24/11,Matt Temple<[email protected]>wrote:I guess I
> should
> > > post
> > > > > a few pictures to the group.
> > > > > > So here's the link:http://photobucket.com/my85nighthawk
> > > > > > It's been raining so much here, I haven't had much time to clean
> > > > > > anything up, and since this Nighthawk isn't garaged and just
> lives
> > > > > > under a cover in the rain, there is a bit of rust poking through,
> and
> > > > > > I have to do something about the engine paint, which is chipping
> a
> > > > > > bit. I have a pretty pristine exhaust set, too, that I haven't
> > > > > > installed. But here's the bike. I got the bike with around 9000
> > > > > > miles, and I now have 17700 miles on it. I ride it to work and
> use
> > > > > > it for general transportation. I also have ridden a number of
> times
> > > > > > from Boston to the Northampton area to see my daughters. This
> > > > > > summer, if it ever stops raining, I'd like to take it up to New
> > > > > > Hampshire to ride the Kancamagus Highway. I'm not great with
> > > > > > heights, but that's ok with me. Not sure about the Blueridge. But
> > > > > > that's a long way away.
> > > > > > Again, $350 from Craigslist, then replacement of a few things.
> > > > > > 1. Front forks
> > > > > > 2. Rear shocks
> > > > > > 3. Carbs (and new cables)
> > > > > > 4. The tank. (It came with a dented black one)
> > > > > > 5. One side cover.
> > > > > > 6. Two rubber turn signal standoffs
> > > > > > 7. Wheels (got a GREAT deal with two essentially new Dunlop 501s
> for
> > > > > > around $100.)
> > > > > > 8. Instrument shell casing
> > > > > > 9. Gear shift lever
> > > > > > 10. Handlebars
> > > > > > 11. Fork seals
> > > > > > 12. Brake pads
> > > > > > The bike had clearly been dropped, but there seemed to be no real
> > > > > > damage
> > > > > > I think my total cost is somewhere between $1000 and $1200.
> > > > > > The hardest thing I did myself was the carb replacement. It was a
> > > > > > typical event ... if the choke was fully on (it isn't really a
> choke,
> > > > > > either, since it's just letting in more gas, not blocking the
> > > > > > airflow), it would just barely idle; but give it throttle and it
> > > would
> > > > > > just die. Main jets were blocked.
> > > > > > Matt Temple
> > > > > > --
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> >
> > > > > >  crystal 002.jpg
> > > > > > 186KViewDownload
> >
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