The advantage to no stand is that you know your straps are evenly
balanced. Maybe I was misunderstood. I meant to park the bike on the
side stand, and then pulled up off the side stand with the straps. If
you have a helper to hold the bike upright while you strap it you
wouldn't need the stand.
With a center stand your straps are compressing steel, requiring much
more force on your straps and attachment points to account for bumps
500ish lbs in motion is hard to stop. The slightest give in your
rigging makes for a loose load.
With no stand and the straps pulling the suspension down hard you
have lots of room for slack before you actually have a loose bike.
Tires on almost any deck surface will be very resistant to sliding.
So even if both straps on the same side back off 1/4 inch the bike
will lean a little but it won't fall over. With a center stand the
bike couldn't lean so you'd have loose straps, add a bump and some
bad luck you have a loose load.
A long trip with a wood deck I'd probably nail 2x4's beside each
wheel so they couldn't shift sideways. In a pickup box, the tires are
going to be in the trough of the ribs (if you actually get unlucky
enough for them to sit on top wiggle the bike till it sits in the
trough). With the load strapped down hard there is no way the tire is
going to come up over the 1/4 rib even with WD40 on deck.
At 10:50 AM 2/23/2012, you wrote:
I have seen discussions in at least one forum about how stable is
the center stand vs. the kick stand. The discussion was centred in
the case of parking the bike while fast winds are blowing. The
argument to favor kick stand is that you have 3 points of support
against two for the center. But of course in the case of the wind
that depends how the direction of the wind with respect to the bike,
if the bike has fairings or not, etc.I personally think that for
hauling the center stand is better.
Javier.
On Thu, Feb 23, 2012 at 1:41 PM, Minh Trat
<<mailto:[email protected]>[email protected]> wrote:
So using the center stand is a bad idea? I thought that was a stable
way to keep the bike up... I had it(front wheel) pushed up against the
front wall of the trailer on the centerstand, and tied downfrom the
truck "D" rings at each corner of the truck bed.
Minh
On Wed, Feb 22, 2012 at 7:10
PM, <<mailto:[email protected]>[email protected]> wrote:
> Thanks for all the great tips!
>
> It has a bed liner, I'm not sure what the lay out of the cleats
are. It's a Chevy S-10
>
> I haven't seen it yet. My Mom works at a dealership in Bedford
Pa. & she's been keeping an eye out for a nice trade-in.
> A Mechanic & my Dad gave it a thorough inspection. I could
probably get some old tires for free.
> Tomorrow I'm purchasing insurance in York Pa. & heading out.
>
> Bernie-
>
>
>
> On 02/22/12, Graham Rogers wrote:
>
> car tires - good idea, would have saved a bike from poll vaulting
over the side when both tie downs on the one side let loose!!!
>
>
> On Feb 22, 2012, at 7:58 PM, Sean Snell wrote:
>
>
>
> Aside from the mentioned tie down methods, when hauling with my
F-150, I additionally place a few old car tires snugged up against
either side of the bike in the off chance my ratchet straps let
loose and the bike tipped over in the bed. (Call it a cheap
insurance policy; my dad taught me that one.) Also, we have 2x12
boards we use for ramps with a piece of angle iron bolted to one
end that acts as a sudo- "hook" when I unhook the support cables
for my tailgate and drop it all the way down.
>
> Call it a cheap insurance policy; my dad taught me that one.
>
> Peace,
>
> Sean
>
> On Feb 22, 2012 5:20 PM, "surfswab"
<<mailto:[email protected]>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
> If your truck tie down points are like mine (boat-like cleats with a
>
> smallish hole in the middle) the ratchet strap s-hooks may not fit the
>
> hole.
>
>
>
> I picked up some Wally World carabiners (like rock climbers use) and
>
> threaded them thru the small hole in each cleat. Works like a charm.
>
>
>
> Careful using unsecured boards as a ramp. They tend to skitter around
>
> during loading/unloading. I bought one of those Harbor Freight kits
>
> that converts 2 x 12s to ramps, positioned them close together and
>
> screwed plywood over them to hold them together to make a 24-inch
>
> ramp. Then drilled holes in the tailgate and used self-tapping screws
>
> to keep it secure.
>
>
>
> I've also used the redneck method -- open the tailgate, back into a
>
> ditch or up against a small hill and just "wrassle" the bike onto the
>
> tailgate.
>
>
>
> Take a buddy with you. Even a small bike can get away from you if
>
> you're not careful.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Feb 22, 4:52 pm, Kyle Munz
<<mailto:[email protected]>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> The truck should have D rings at all for corners of the bed to attach to.
>
>> On the bike attach to the handlebars down low to the triple-tree, or the
>
>> triple-tree itself if you can get to it, up front and the rear grab bar or
>
>> something similarly sturdy in back. You don't want to attach to wheels or
>
>> forks or swingarms. Tighten the straps down evenly all the way around and
>
>> really really compress the suspension, you don't want to bottom
it out, but
>
>> take up more than 50% of the travel. The tension of the straps will hold
>
>> the bike in place, don't use the kickstand or centerstand.
>
>>
>
>> -Kyle
>
>>
>
>>
>
>>
>
>> On Wed, Feb 22, 2012 at 3:43 PM,
<<mailto:[email protected]>[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> > Hi Folks,
>
>>
>
>> > I'm upgrading from the NH to a truck. I'm riding the motorcycle to pick
>
>> > up the vehicle & need to safely get the bike home.
>
>>
>
>> > Having a truck is a whole new ball game for me.
>
>>
>
>> > I was going to pick up some ratchet tie-downs. Where are the best spots
>
>> > to secure a cycle?
>
>>
>
>> > Now that the 550 isn't my sole means of transportation I can
give it some
>
>> > long needed TLC.
>
>>
>
>> > Thanks-
>
>> > Bernie
>
>>
>
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Abbotsford, BC, Canada
VA7PDP
2001 PT Cruiser
83 450 Honda Nighthawk
78 F350 460/C6 on propane
71 Bronco 302/C4/D20 D44/9" {o===o}
"Just add Lightness-"
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