Some general tips: Have the bike in a designated location that you can close up and walk away and expect things to be just as you left them when you return.
Approach the dismantling process in a very meticulous/methodical way -- parts, nuts/bolts/screws, electrical wiring, etc. all grouped/ stored together, but in separate areas or containers, according the system you're taking apart. You can use old coffee cans, etc. for small parts storage. I prefer the 4-for-$1 plastic containers with lids from the Dollar Store. Stackable and semi-transparent and easier to locate a specific item. Label everything with masking tape and a felt tip pen. You can't possibly remember where everything goes when it's time to reassemble, so descriptive labeling is crucial. PB Blaster, available at any auto parts store is an excellent penetrating fluid to loosen stubborn/rusted screws/bolts. Use it liberally and don't muscle any fasteners, or you risk stripped/crossed threads or bunged up slots in screw heads. Invest in a cheap manual impact driver (Harbor Freight -- $5-6). On reassembly, torque everything (torque wrench $20-30 -- again at Harbor Freight) using specs in your service manual. Clean everything, using a variety of solvents -- carb cleaner for carbs, brake cleaner for brake parts, Caig Deoxit for electrical connections, mineral spirits for general grunge, etc. A wire wheel on a bench grinder (or an electric drill) is helpful for removing rust, especially on the threads/heads of any fasteners you'll be reusing. Specific tips: When you're down to the point of engine removal, make a sketch on cardboard (a kind of map) of the motor mounts and where on the frame they're located. Include on your sketch where the bolts are located, then cut an X in the carboard at the bolt hole locations. As you remove each bolt from the frame, press it into the corresponding cardboard X. Reason: each bolt is a different length and fastens into the crankcase. This device will keep the bolts organized so you'll know which goes where on reassembly. It also reduces the possiblity that you'll cross-thread or strip a critical bolt putting things back together. When you're down to the last motor mount, place a thick, soft item (a old sofa cushion from a thrift store works well) next to the frame and tilt the frame/motor onto it. Remove the final bolts and let the motor fall onto the cushion. You can then lift the frame off the motor. Reverse the process for reassembly. Good luck with it. On Mar 13, 12:13 pm, timlight <[email protected]> wrote: > I am about to do the same thing. I bought a 1983 550 about a year ago > and unfortunatly the title was not clear and I could not get it > fixed. I just found another 550 which was in rough shape but has a > clean title. I bought it and will be stripping it down and repainting > the frame and putting my motor and other good parts from the other > bike on it. I am fairly good at fixing things and doing my own auto > repairs so I should be able to do this I have the clmer manual and it > does not look too bad. > > On Mar 13, 9:41 am, Stefano Ascari <[email protected]> wrote: > > > > > Hey Surfswab, > > I have the skills, time, and the banual but not an engine replacement at > > the moment. I think I'll end up parting the bike in the end which is sad. > > She was my first love... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
