All that glitters is not gold.. The ST1300 braking system is not for the faint at heart. There is a portional valve and six valves to bleed in their proper order. The portional valve and 2 front brakes need to be tilted 16 degrees to do it correctly. And they have been known to lock up too. It's not one of Honda's better designs. The trick may come in handy some day.
Ron _____ From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of paul annen Sent: Saturday, May 26, 2012 9:33 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Brake Bleeding Trick i have to refill my clutch frequently, and i have never blead it. the air will eventualy work its way up the system and out. vibration is one of the best ways to get the vime to vibrate, is to go out and ride.. On Fri, May 25, 2012 at 7:46 PM, Pastor Ron <[email protected]> wrote: I found this recently on brake bleeding. It may help if you are having trouble bleeding your brakes. ========================= I was on of the first people to use "Disc" Brakes on a Road racer in this country 1970. I had mild steel cut into circles and had holes cut into them and used Hearst Airheart Calipers. The Calipers had a lot of parts inside them that would trap air and the clear plastic lines always show air bubbles! Bob Hansen that owned the Kawasaki Road Race team told me what to do and it has worked 100% ever since! Pressure will force the air to the top / master cylinders, so here goes! After you have done all you can do to get the air out and have a spongy lever but can pump up the brakes a little, Pump up the brakes as best you can and then tape the lever to the Handle Bar and let it sit a few hours and come back and hold the lever in and remove the tape and you are done! (Slowly release the lever after the tape is removed!) By Taping, I mean take Duct Tape and wrap it a few times around the held in lever! I always fold about 6 inches over at the end of the tape to keep the sticky stuff off the controls! This works for everything! If you have too much air in the lines, you may need to do this twice, only because after a lot of the air is removed, there is just no more pressure to remove the rest of the air! Trust me on this one and you will be happy to see the hard lever again! One other thing is when I change the lines, I take a small squirt can *The kind with a lever and the tube sticking out and fill it to near the top! I then put a plastic line on the tube and fill that line also. Then put it on the closed bleed valve and pump one time and then I open the Bleed valve (Just a little) and fill the master cylinder from the Bleed hole! Doing this removes 95% of the Air problems to begin with! I hope this helps a few people! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected] <mailto:nighthawk_lovers%[email protected]> . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [email protected]. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en.
