Ethanol is grain alcohol - booze. Isopropyl is chemically made alcohol - rubbing alcohol.
Thank you, Ross -----Original Message----- From: "surfswab" <[email protected]> Sent: 4/3/2013 7:34 PM To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" <[email protected]> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Costly Inactivity Was wondering about that myself. Ethanol is a form of alcohol. Seafoam contains a fair amount of (isopropyl) alcohol. Ergo, if ethanol corrodes, so might Seafoam, which we know not to be so. The bit about Stabil being unstabil (sic) is news to me, too. On Apr 3, 3:44 pm, Kurt Nolte <[email protected]> wrote: > Not this again... ethanol is NOT corrosive unless you're talking about > untreated, unlined, unanodized aluminum, and even then it's slow. No part > of the carburetor fits any of these criteria. > > What IS corrosive is (ionized) water and all the crap it dissolves and > carries with it. Yes, ethanol is hygroscopic, but unless you introduce > liquid water it will only self-entrain ~5% by mass from the atmosphere > (mass of ethanol, not of gasoline total.) > > Beyond that, the modern chemical makeup of gasoline contains many more > volatile elements than it once did. Some of them are there purely to keep > the essentially insoluble additives (octane boosters, for the most part, > but also detergents) in suspension. These volatiles need nothing but time > to dissipate, and time is plentiful to a parked vehicle. > > There are nearly 120 different chemicals in the average gallon of regular > unleaded. Singling out any one of them as the source of all the ills is > just foolish. > > Personally, I don't have to deal with it. I commute on the Viffer, and the > Nighthawk before it, year-round. :p > > -Kurt > > On Wed, Apr 3, 2013 at 2:21 PM, Paul LeBoutillier > <[email protected]>wrote: > > > > > > > > > > > On Wed, Apr 3, 2013 at 12:09 PM, B Larimer <[email protected]> wrote: > > >> When going to start after storage, fill tank all the way up to top. > >> Siphon off the top to remove oil residue from before storage. (I use a > >> turkey baster) Open carb drains (cloth under to protect engine) & turn on > >> petcock. The open drains allow fuel to flush any residues or debris out of > >> the needle and seats. You only need to do this for a moment, so immediately > >> close petcock again, seal carb drains, reopen petcock and you are ready to > >> ride! > > > That's essentially what my mechanic told me. > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > > email to [email protected]. > > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > > Visit this group at > >http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en-US. > > For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers?hl=en-US. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
