Oops accidentally sent before completing comments. Yes you will need new
dot 3/4 fluid, don't use dot5 it is incompatible. K&L sells rebuild kits
for master cylinders/calipers. They are about $20. But I have found that
most times you don't need new rubber bits and just getting everything
cleaned up works well and doesn't leak. I deglase rotors with a scuff pad
on an air angle grinder, basically a little round sotchbright pad. No
chemicals involved.

Allen Thomas
On Mar 19, 2015 7:14 AM, "Allen Thomas" <[email protected]> wrote:

> No you don't need to clean the carbs before test running an engine. In
> fact I have ran bikes off of starting fluid just to check them out.
>
> Allen Thomas
> On Mar 19, 2015 2:35 AM, <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Allen, this is good advice.  I have a few more questions if you
>> don't mind.  Is it important to clean the carbs before even trying to start
>> it up just to verify it runs?   It looks really clean and only has about
>> 5800 miles on it - which seems very low so I hope everything is working -
>> but it could have major engine damage for all I know.  I assume I need to
>> change the brake fluid as well?  Are the seals on the master cylinder
>> common seals and easy to find at the hardware or auto parts stores?  I
>> found a video on deglazing which recommended contact cleaner, do you know
>> if I can use engine degreaser or DW-40 instead or is contact cleaner the
>> only suitable product?  Thanks again.
>>
>> Jason
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 18, 2015 at 10:52:16 AM UTC-7, Allen wrote:
>>>
>>> I posted this check list just a couple of days ago, but here it is
>>> again. Basically, sooner or later you will need to at least inspect all of
>>> the items on the list. I would definately do the following as a bare
>>> minimum on a bike of that age that has been sitting.
>>> 1. Clean the carbs thoroughly. (Normally the valves would be adjusted
>>> first, but that isn't necessary for your bike.)
>>> 2. Take all of the electrical connections apart, clean with electrical
>>> contact cleaner and reassemble  with dielectric grease. Paying special
>>> attention to the ground straps and the stator, and R/R connections.
>>> Possibly add a common ground point if it makes sense.
>>> 3. Disassemble, clean, inspect and replace seals on the brake master
>>> cylinder, and​​ calipers. deglaze the rotors while the wheel is off.
>>> ​
>>>  Master_Motorcycle Checklist.xls
>>> <https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_wugBxirhqra2JCbkhDX2VDUTQ/edit?usp=drive_web>
>>> ​
>>>
>>> On Wed, Mar 18, 2015 at 2:58 AM, <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hello,  I bought the subject bike a while back, the tank was rusted out
>>>> as they left it in storage without gas in it.  I stripped it clean and
>>>> coated the inside with Damon Red kote - it matches the faded wineberry red
>>>> perfectly.  The outside was a bit chipped, and after much nonsense I
>>>> stripped it all off and will be priming and repainting soon and applying
>>>> new decals.  I picked up new spark plugs.  the rest of the bike looks
>>>> pretty nice.  I changed out the oil, filter, and shaft oil.  I installed a
>>>> new battery.  Any suggestions on other items I should service or replace
>>>> before I tyr to start the bike up?  I have my motorcycle license but am new
>>>> to motorcycles.  I am a mechanical engineer and pretty good with tools.
>>>> I'll post pictures at some point.  I also picked up a windshield and side
>>>> cargo boxes, these are aftermarket and the manual doesn't seem to recommend
>>>> these items, though it also doesn't seem to expressly forbid them.   Any
>>>> advise please send my way and thanks so much.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Jason
>>>>
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>>>
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