I received this advice from an old friend regarding your issue. Passing it along hoping it helps. From experience I can say you're better off taking it slow getting the broken stud out. Because breaking it again, attempting to drill it out, breaking off a hardened screw extractor in it, and then attempting to torch and drill that out will just make your life suck. Anyways, good luck! :)
Remove the fork leg. Not much work but vital to success. > Why ? The job is more important than you think. Replacing the fork bottom > is way more expensive and lots more work if stud removal goes bad. > Work slowly. No room for error. Drench stud with something.. PB blaster ? > Inverted, it will soak in better. Repair thread damage (8.25 pitch, use > die). The stud is right-hand thread on both ends. Double nut and jam them > TIGHTLY. Clamp fork leg in large vise. Clamp across axle area not tube > (duh) Clamp using wood on each side, that will not leave marks and the > desired effect is not to apply pressure to the area but rather to hold the > fork leg securely. (pressure applied to the thread area by a vise is > counter productive.. duh) Secure the fork leg. A few sharp strikes with a > large hammer, on end (axial) should shock it loose. DO NOT POUND Now use a > 1/2" breaker bar (at least 18") and a short extension and a six point, deep > well socket. The short 3'8" ratchet is not going to do it. The short > extension is to make the torque applied more axial than lateral. Lateral > force may break the stud again. > Too much work ? Hardly. Failure will make a bad situation much worse. > Source a fork bottom ? Good luck. Even if the hole must be heli-coiled, > still a better option. A careful read of shop materials will show that the > forward nut is to be tightened first and then the rear one when fixing the > axle in place. Why, or how, do you break a stud in that scenario ? There is > a torque spec. An open gap to the rear may be expected. > -Kyle On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 6:57 PM Holger Selover-Stephan < [email protected]> wrote: > On Sunday, February 10, 2019 at 2:24:06 PM UTC-8, kiwinPA wrote: >> >> Is this a Nighthawk 650.. remind me...? >> > > This is on the 700S. > > In other news, the tires (Battlax) arrived, and are mounted. I couldn't > figure out the zip tie method, but they seem much more flexible than the > Kenda, and mounting the traditional way was pretty easy actually. > > The stud has been sitting in PB Blaster for a while, will try to get it > off later tonight. I think you guys are saying it's a right-hand thread. To > me, that makes sense: that way you'd tighten the connection with the nuts > during installation, not loosen them. > > Thanks for all your help, made all the difference here! > > Holger > > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > email to [email protected]. > To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. To post to this group, send email to [email protected]. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/nighthawk_lovers. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
