Most blade fuses have little openings on each side of the number on the top 
of the blade fuse. So I have a tester that comes to a point, has a wire and 
clip out the back and a light in the handle, I got it from sears on line 
for like 8 bucks or so. I put the clip on the engine block and touch the 
top and bottom of the fuse. If the handle lights there is 12 volts there. I 
had to pull all the plugs in the back of the fuse block to gain access to 
the connections since the plastic plug was so tight with the wire I 
couldn't get the tester into it. When I did I found that 12 volts was not 
on the connector in the fuse block where it connected to the wires going to 
the handle.. I pulled the fuse block and opened it to find that where the 
fuse plugged in the little finger resting against the fuse was broken. I 
took a little wire and solder it in the square block that had the little 
finger and then soldered the wire in and bent the wire back into it. Just 
as long as the solder isn't a cold joint it fixed the issue.
I then had 12 volts at the horn, lights and blinkers.
When reassembling the whole thing went dead. So I just took the tester and 
tested both sides of the main fuse. 12 on one side 0 on the other. So many 
30 amp fuse burned.

Hope this and the wiring diagram helped  

On Tuesday, April 2, 2019 at 1:13:43 PM UTC-5, marktr160 wrote:
>
> This is my next step. The only way I know of how to check it is to get to 
> the back of the fuse block and pull the plug in connections. Is there a 
> different way? 

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