Hi Alec; quite a distance between us. I live in the North Midlands of UK, a
steeltown called Scunthorpe. The availability of timber here is non existant
unless you want some wet pine for building. I believe the building regulations
now state 12% moisture content nowadays though. I travel 120 miles to fetch a
wee bit from my nearest supplier in deepest darkest lincolnshire. A hex will be
upon me should I divulge the whereabouts of this grid reference. Not used Sugar
Maple but after 40 years of drilling holes, my accuracy is close enough to use
the "real Mc'oy" my biggest problem once more is the grid reference of the tone
holes. Oh there's nothing wrong if you want to play in F concert and tweak the
reed but what I seek is the actual tone holes for F+20C without any tweaking of
reeds and I believe now have found it after many many attempts and failures.
Known in some circles as " the secret of the golden rivet" It aught to make
reed making easier for this particular chanter at least. This is of course for
the long chanter and being very long (Low G) doesn't allow for the same kind of
bullying of the redd without the reed losing something of its quality. This is
entirely in my opinion of course and I sometimes wonder if I am allowed an
opinion. I don't make pipes for a living nor do I intend to however I do like
to play them in tune wherever possible with the odd visitor when the weather is
nice. Do the fibres on Sugar Maple stand up when treated with oil or does it
behave like the Black woods do? I have noticed this on Box. Best wishes from
England Alec. Malcolm -- CalecM wrote :
Malcolm
" . . . blackwood or ebony . . . "? I may live in California, but
my genes are still Scottish! I work everything in maple until I'm
absolutely sure of the dimensions, and only then does the expensive
wood come out!
BTW, I don't know of the availability of maple where you are, but
it is just fine for pipemaking in terms of tone and workability.
Alec
In a message dated 2/2/2010 10:17:44 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
malcolm.sargea...@ntlw... writes:
Looks like you have a D and F set. It's the new style Drill and Fill
so common when a good reed is found for a crappy chanter. A mixture
of powdered blackwood or ebony with super glue works wonders after
filing then wet+dry then finnish off with a green scouring pad (nick
the one from the kitchen sink) glue remover will free your hands
from the chanter when finnished, have fun! Malcolm.-- CalecM wrote :
I have just renamed the pipes I'm making. Only one drone, drone
and
chanter of different wood, chanter holes clearly moved by filling
and
re-drilling. May never be done. Only one thing they could be
called:
"Scottish half-dones"
Alec MacLean
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