Hello Anthony and all, I always used to use Mike Nelson's method of sticking on key pads, and agree with your comments of it mostly working well and forming the pad to the shape of the seating. However I have now gone back to the method I originally learned form Colin - the drop of sticky shellac applied with a small brush, or in my case the end of a metal scriber. This is partly because Mike's method is fiddly and time consuming - sticking pads on a 17-key chanter with tiny flakes of shellac and a soldering iron can get very tedious - but my main reason for changing was because I decided it could sometimes contribute to squeaking. The shaped pad has a hard "lump" in the middle - solidified shellac under the leather of the pad - and this could mean that it occasionally doesn't seal so well and causes a squeak. Admittedly this is only a problem if the key has too much side play in the slot, so that the lump comes down not quite central, but I think it is still a factor to consider. Philip
----- Original Message ----- From: "Anthony Robb" <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2011 1:11 PM Subject: [NSP] Re: Shellac
Hello Francis and Paul David B uses shellac on his silver mounted sets. As Paul's set is made from lignum it won't be a Burleigh set. So shellac seems to make sense in this case. When it comes to pad fixing Mike Nelson's method of using a small piece of flake shellac between pad and key in situ on the chanter and then gentle pressing a hot soldering iron on the key until the molten shellac reaches the edges of the key (easily observed) seems to work well. It also heat forms the pad to seal nicely with any minor irregularities in the chanter seating. Anthony --- On Sat, 15/1/11, Francis Wood <[email protected]> wrote: From: Francis Wood <[email protected]> Subject: [NSP] Re: Shellac To: "Paul Scott" <[email protected]> Cc: [email protected] Date: Saturday, 15 January, 2011, 12:39 Paul, this largely depends on what the pipe-maker has used in the first place. Shellac would be an appropriate material for antique pipes, fulfilling two functions, both as an adhesive and a gap-filler. In this case the material would be solid shellac rather than in solution which will obviously change in volume through evaporation. Most NSPs on this planet are made by David Burleigh, his total being well in excess of 3000 sets. His preferred adhesive is UHU and that's what I would recommend if you own one of those. Francis On 15 Jan 2011, at 11:56, Paul Scott wrote: > After having fixed a leaky tuning bead fitting I have to replace the brass ferrule and end stopper. Am I correct that shellac is the best solution? I know that there are plenty of other adhesives but would Shellac in alcohol be the stuff I am looking for? It us advertised as sanding sealer and says on the label that it is pure shellac and alcohol. They are lignum drones. > > Paul Scott > > > > > To get on or off this list see list information at > [1]http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html -- References 1. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1191 / Virus Database: 1435/3380 - Release Date: 01/14/11
