As I need to produce tagged PDF I am using \setupbackend[format={pdf/ua-2}]
The tagged PDF is great.
Only the bookmarks are corrupted when non-ASCII is used:
\setupinteraction[state=start]
\setupbackend[format={pdf/ua-2}]
%\setupbackend[format={pdf/ua-1}]
\placebookmarks[chapter][]
\starttext
\chapter{Äpfel – Öl}
\stoptext
Steffen
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