"Mountains are the beginning and the end of all natural scenery."

John Ruskin


Bozeman, Montana to West Yellowstone, Montana

90 miles. 3110 feet climbing.

Another morning with 40 degree Fahrenheit temperature, and wind chill below freezing. 
I'm told it's because Bozeman sits above 6,000 feet elevation. Oh boy, I can't wait to 
get to West Yellowstone which is above 7,000 feet. We pray for the sun to make a quick 
appearance. But head off regardless, out of Bozeman, then directly south, past dry 
scrub, then irrigated fields, then toward a pass (the Gallatin Gateway) into the 
Gallatin National Forest. The national park scenery is spectacular. We're back to 
forested hillsides; the mountains are closed in on the Gallatin River, making a narrow 
winding road, which climbs consistently, but gently for 70 miles. The trees are dark 
green and the Gallatin is a real mountain river, rushing, clear and sparkling. The 
ride would be idyllic if it wasn't for the fact that it's just not warming up, and 
most significantly, we're pushing into a very strong headwind of cold air coming down 
off the Yellowstone plateau and funneling through the pass we're ascending. Today's 
ride is one of the shortest on the trip. But I'm grateful for the sag stops every 20 
miles. Lunch is at 60 miles (just inside Yellowstone Park), very early by PAC 
standards. But it seems we're all ready for it. We've added Larry from Washington and 
the extra body makes working against the wind a fair amount easier. We religiously 
take turns with one mile pulls. The wind is sufficiently strong that I'm glad to 
relinquish the lead each time. 

Finally, after 70 continuous uphill miles, some welcome downhill. We stop for a minute 
to take photos of wild buffalo grazing by the roadside, then push on into West 
Yellowstone (without tights, gloves, Lifa and jacket for only the last 10 miles). All 
in all, a relatively easy day despite the wind, and my legs feel less tired then 
yesterday. And that's good because there's 6000 feet to do tomorrow.

Don Friedlander

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