"So all day long the noise of battle rolled among the mountains by the winter sea." Lord Tennyson Evanston, Wyoming to Vernal, Utah. 149 miles. 8820 feet climbing. We took it easy yesterday just so we'd be fresher for today. It's not only the longest day so far, but also the most climbing. Evanston isn't as cold in the morning as our previous starts have been; all of 45 degrees.And the sun makes an appearance within minutes of our heading out so it does warm up quickly. The first 28 miles are on the interstate I-80. Ordinarily I'm not thrilled to ride interstate highways. The traffic is fast and often heavy, and there's usually truck tire debris all over the shoulder. PAC only uses interstates if there are no other options. But in this case it provides a limited access road (no intersections to worry about) with consistent low percentage grades, and a tailwind. In short order, and rather painlessly, we knock off 28 miles and 2000 feet of the day's climbing. All of the day will be above 6000 feet elevation, and most of it above 7000 feet. While most days I keep the odometer on "distance" (too often too depressing to keep it on "speed"), with the significant vertical we're doing today I keep it on "elevation". Off the interstate, we head south and east across the very south-west corner of Wyoming. The high plain is flat, then the road drops into the Wyoming badlands. There's only rock and sagebrush. Desolate, but interesting because it's so different. By the second sag stop at mile 60 we've still done only 2500 feet. We're a little worried that there's over 6000 feet of climbing to do in the remaining 80 miles. There is some hope that perhaps there's an error in the figures Lon's given for the ride. Some rolling countryside adds only 500 more feet by the lunch stop at the Utah (again!) border. Lunch is fabulous, and I eat lots in anticipation of the remainder of the day. It's always a balancing act to eat enough so as to have energy for the remaining distance and climbing, and not so much that you feel like someone's attached lead weights to your bike while you were stopped. Sure enough, I felt rather slothful as we left the lunch sag. And we started climbing right away. In addition, the temperature is also climbing and all extra layers come off. Then just when a climbing rhythm gets developed, and some acclimation to the heat, we plummet down into the Flaming Gorge. I had thought that the high plain was hot and dry, but the gorge is hotter and drier. But the colour (reds, oranges, greens and browns) and formation (pillars, cliffs, boulders) of the rock on either side of the gorge is stunning. Then there's a view of a large salt lake at the end. Bluer than blue, and salt-choked sterile. While the air is hot, the water looks cold. Then the real battle begins. The road snakes through the heat up over the mountain at the south end of the gorge. It's a 1500 foot climb over 6 miles. It's a consistent 8% with no respite (although we do stop and take pictures). For the 6 miles we can always see the gorge and the lake below, and the only noise is heavy breathing. But then we're up at 8000 feet in a pine and aspen forest. The smell is overwhelming, and suddenly there's humidity and some life in the air. We know that there's an 8400 foot summit to negotiate, but we're already at 8000 and our calculations say we still have 3000 feet of climbing to do to match Lon's number for the day. We're ever more hopeful there's been an error. The ups and downs are gradual, and with a tailwind and the exhilaration of the surroundings and the major climb accomplished our speed increases and our group of 5 hammers along at 25 mph for quite a stretch. Then the battle is rejoined. The topography of the high plain changes from gentle rollers to steeper drops and climbs. They come at us one after another; 200 feet down and 200 feet up. We reach the 8400 foot summit and expect the promised 10 mile downhill, but get more up and down. Jane uses some language she insists she's never used before. Breathing is heavy, and legs are tired. Finally we get to the sag at the top of the downhill. In 37 miles we've added 5000 feet to our day's climbing. Then we lose 2400 feet in a 10 mile descent (where Ann rockets off again). Back down to the desert, and into the booming metropolis of Vernal by just before 6pm. Quick dinner and try to get to bed by 10 pm (not successful). And just think, tomorrow we get to get up and do it all over again. 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