"Full many a glorious morning have I seen flatter the mountain tops with sovereign 
eye, kissing with golden face the meadows green, gilding pale streams with heavenly 
alchemy."

William Shakespeare

Springerville, Arizona to Silver City, New Mexico.

149 miles. 7600 feet climbing.

The day starts off like the last two days, a steep climb south out of town. It further 
mirrors yesterday as we climb up from the high desert (6000 feet elevation) into the 
mountains. Evergreens make a welcome return. There are stream beds with actual flowing 
water in them. In the mountain valleys there are green meadows. This is the first 
green grass I've seen for weeks. The sun makes an appearance over the mountain tops 
and lights everything up magically. But while it provides light, its warmth takes 
quite awhile to be felt. I've got four layers on top as we climb to 8500 feet. I'm 
glad of each layer as we descend through cool air to the mountain town of Alpine. 

The dense forest, meandering road and close mountains make the climbing a pleasure. At 
34 miles we cross back into New Mexico and instantly the road conditions improve. This 
state seems to build their roads much smoother than Arizona. The broken glass also 
returns, but we pay it less attention (familiarity breeds contempt). I think nice 
thoughts about the New Mexico department of transport. The road climbs from Alpine 
back up to 8000 feet. By 50 miles we've already accumulated 3000 feet of climbing, 
we're feeling good, and we think we're in great shape. I take some pictures at the 
top, then there's a fabulous 6 mile descent to the second sag stop. We have to climb 
again to a pass through the foothills before we drop down another 1800 feet to lunch 
at 80 miles. There are still some trees here in the lower foothills, but it's back to 
being mostly hot and dry. 

The road rolls after lunch, so we continue accumulating climbing feet, but losing 
actual elevation until we drop to 4800 feet at the last sag at 123 miles. It seems 
this is the first time in a while we've been below 6000. No one is really sure what 
the elevation of Silver City is, but there's a rumour there's still 1800 feet to climb 
in the last 25 miles (we've already accumulated 5400 feet). We're not too excited 
about the prospect. It's already 5 o'clock. I'm not sure where the time went. We've 
been riding pretty steadily and we're not the last group of riders. But we've been 
averaging 16 mph through the mountains so 25 more miles before the sun sets in 2 hours 
at 7 PM shouldn't be a problem. Or should it?

The wind seems to pick up a bit. It gets hotter. The road starts climbing. The road 
surface turns into freshly laid loose gravel over tar. The broken glass on the 
shoulder is now joined by the excess gravel. There's nowhere comfortable to ride. I'm 
now thinking dark thoughts about the New Mexico department of transport. My feet start 
to hurt. Then my hands start to complain. Now my legs are getting tired. The rumour of 
1800 feet to go turns out to be false. By the time we crest the continental divide at 
6300 feet we're already past the rumoured statistic, we still have 6 miles of rolling 
countryside to negotiate, and the sun is perilously close to the horizon. For the 
first time in 15 days the "love train" splits up. Dick and Ann push ahead to beat the 
sunset. Jane and I sweep up the rear, watching the sun sink lower. We did have to take 
off our sunglasses 2 miles before the end, but we still arrived while it was light 
(just!). A quick shower and a gourmet meal at the Wendy's next to the hotel (we 
weren't going to walk any further than we had to), then get ready to do it all again 
tomorrow.

Don Friedlander

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