six point socket is best, breaker bar, and a vise grip or just c-clamp to clamp 
on flywheel and let ride up against the bellhousing when it turns. It will stop 
by jambing against that. If you have good fitting sockets, I like to use an air 
impact. Also, realize the bolt heads have little metal lock tabs that you have 
to bend down first. Usually socket won't fit on with tabs bent over bolt. On 
assembly, you can re-use the tabs or just use star washers of correct size. New 
bolts are reccommended and they may come in kit with the washers. A little 
lock-tight also. Proper torque for each one too. Buy a torque wrench if you are 
doing rebuild, it will be in valuable for proper tightening of mains, rods and 
other stuff. Specs are in the back of each section in the manual, another 
"tool" you should have. 


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
With the ideas I got earlier in the day, I decided to go for it and I
got the engine out, transmission off, and clutch off. Next, the shop
manual says to take off the flywheel and clutch housing, but I can't
seem to get that to happen. It appears I have to get the flywheel off to
get to the bolts holding on the housing. But, I can't get the flywheel
off. It's hard enough to keep it from rotating, but even when I can keep
it still, I can't get enough leverage to break the bolts free. Is this
common for these trucks? In the searching I did, it sounds like
sometimes this can be a trouble spot. I'm kind of concerned I'll round
off the bolts. I don't even want to know what happens if I do that. I
have tried at least 4 of them with no luck yet. Could I be doing
something wrong? Do I need a longer wrench? I think if I get any more
leverage, I'll need a more reliable way to lock the flywheel in place.

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Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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G. L. Perry
Huntington, IN 46750
AD trucks
MM tractors
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