Ken ;
-ususally- when you can pump up the brakes and they'll feel hard ,
this indicates an _adjustment_ problem rather than an air in the
system problem .
I had a lot of troubles with my Huck brakes as the DPO didn't know
there are _two_ adjusters per wheel and how to properly adjust them
either so the shoes were all worn oddly , I had to re-adjust weekly
for about two months of daily driving before they began to take up
correctly and not cause swerving or wheel locking upon hard
application plus low pedal I always needed to pump up...
try the simple stuff first , if there's no damp spots (often
indicated by dust or dirt collecting) anywhere on the backing
plates , hoses or line connections , it's unlikely to be sucking in
air , remember : each time you connect the bleeder hose & bottle ,
it'll have some air come out as the hose bleeds out and if you open
the bleeder bolt too far , air can leak in past the threads too .
Since you now have a used master cylinder , you could use the old
MC's filler cap to make a simple pressure bleeder , that will ensure
100 % air free hydraulics , of you don't want to , please send -me-
the old filler cap as I'd like to make an adapter for my truck .
-Nate
Ken wrote:
>
> Hi All Happy New Year!
>
> I have a brake line bleeding question (or two). For a year or
so I've had some problems with air getting in my brake lines and
causing me to have to pump the brake pedal to brake. I flushed all
the lines and rebuilt both front cylinders as well as the master
cylinder. Both rear cylinders look to be in good shape and none of
them leak. I decided that maybe the master cylinder bore was
warped, pitted, or something so I recently bought and installed a
new master cylinder. When bleeding the brake lines I used the
following procedure.
>
> I had a friend pump the pedal until it was hard and I bled the
wheel valve while he kept pressure on the pedal. Once all the air
was out of the line I tightened the valve before he let his foot off
the brake. We repeated this until all air was gone in the line. I
did this on the furthest wheel and progressed to each one. Once all
the wheel cylinders were bled the pedal still had to be pumped to
engage the brakes. I went back to the rear wheels and repeated the
procedure and sure enough there was air in the lines again!
>
> My question is do I have to keep going around to all cylinders
multiple times to bleed them? Is it normal to have to repeat the
wheels several times to bleed the lines? I see no leaking at any of
the cylinders or the master. Why would the lines have air once each
wheel has been bled?
>
> As usual, thanks a million.
>
>
>
>
> Ken Cluley
> '50 3100 Deluxe
> Wichita Falls, TX
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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