Sandy,

I went to Madeira in December 2000. The Botanic Gardens (Caminho do Meio,
Quinta do Bom Sucesso, Funchal) are nice (spectacular views, excellent
collection of palm trees) but most of their orchids are grown outdoors, and
in late December they were suffering the effects of winter & looking very
sorry for themselves.

The best spot is:

Jardim Orqumdea (Rua Pita da Silva, 37, Bom Sucesso, Funchal). It is a
family-run garden, hidden away on a cul-de-sac off a small side-street in a
residential area just downhill from the Botanic Gardens and is quite hard to
find .. I eventually got there by walked downhill from the Bot Gardens using
my trusty Funchal street map (make sure you get one that has all the town in
it, not just the town centre). The Jardim is a bit like Dr Who's Tardis;
much bigger inside. I doubt they have 50,000 plants as the website boasts,
but they do have a nice collection of plants that are healthy and
well-grown. There is a collection of species (many of them fairly standard
for northern-hemisphere collections) and hybrids (mostly Central and S.
American), but many are at specimen-plant size and were blooming
prolifically when I visited. I'm not very familiar with many of these
American plants, and I really enjoyed the show. There is a large collection
of hybrid Cymbidiums, some of which are extremely old crosses ... and these
were in full bloom when I visited. The place is worth visiting.

Also, try visiting the Central Market in Funchal. Madeira has long been one
of the orchid-growing centres of Europe, producing spikes (mostly
Cymbidiums) for the cut-flower trade. In the last few decades the Madeira
orchid-flower industry has been surplanted by other places that produce
more, better, cheaper, but there are still lots of Cymbidiums grown, many of
which end up in the market. As is the case in the Jardim Orqumdea, what you
see are mostly older crosses that will bring back nostalgic memories of the
florist-shops of your youth (if you're old enough, that is !!!).

One final tip ... try visiting a cemetery. There is a really big one on the
hill above Funchal, but any large cemetary will do.... and there are several
on the island. Yes, really, I'm not kidding ... if you want to see orchids
used in a totally different context, visit a good cemetery in Madeira and
don't forget to take your camera along.

Peter O'Byrne
Singapore
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