Martin wrote:
>Charles Ufford said:
>
>>My small phal species often have problems getting buds,
>>and since I use warm water and keep the temps up, try to keep them in
>>a humid spot and don't overfeed, I'm assuming the water is to blame!
>
>
>I think you have the wrong diagnosis.  Look to your culture.  I
>suggest you read the papers of Yin Tung-Wang at:
>
>http://primera.tamu.edu/orchids/articles.htm
>
>STUDY THEM.
>
>And why warm water?  As along as your water is above 60F it is OK for orchids.
>
>Martin

Thanks for the link, Martin. I generally don't have problems getting 
my phals to flower. I only have one phal hybrid and though it hasn't 
flowered yet, it is still young. For some of my other, non-phal 
orchids, not a great enough temperature differential and/or not quite 
enough light are mostly the reasons for them not flowering.
   My first sentence should've read: 'often have problems getting buds 
to stay on'. I have been given advice that for some of the small 
species, putting cold water on the warm buds (I have heated spot so 
they stay warm though not in greenhouse) could very well be a reason 
for them blasting, along with being told to use distilled water for 
some (mounted on treefern) instead of high ec water, humidity being 
too low for emerging buds. Humidity being too low is quite a problem 
in my apartment in Winter though have water underneath and plastic 
around the carts my plants are on. Usually not a problem for the 
larger ones, but species like phal taenialis, parishii and a few 
others the buds just don't want to stay. I use warm water for the 
warmer species, since I often splash on the leaves; if I were more 
careful and only got the roots, would probably not be a problem using 
colder water if I didn't use calcium chips in some of the species 
that there are suggestions for using in the media. Splashing cold 
water on the leaves of some of the fussier species (phals) that in 
nature rarely see temps below 68F results in spotty death of cells in 
the leaves. Have read that when using cold water when using limestone 
or coral chips in media, the calcium releases too rapidly and can be 
more of a problem than not having the extra calcium available, so 
overall less headaches using normal room temp or slightly above 
water. I've seen very cold water used on other orchids in a nearby 
greenhouse, and they don't seem to suffer in general for it, as long 
as he remembers to water them often enough!

hope this clarification helps things,
regards,
charles
-- 
Charles Ufford 
Oriskany, NY USA
IPA, Central NY, NANOC and So. Tier Orchid Societies
www.cnyos.org
www.geocities.com/charlesufford

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