Hey Bob,
What did you use for the stays and harpoon rope? Looks like wire or
metallic thread? I scored the hull board laps with an embossing tool. It
shows when I curve the hull to fit, highlighting the plank nature with the
card folding at each score line as it curves. Your jib stay would be in
the way of the rope run. Wouldn't it normally be to one side or hooked
over the edge of the hull? I know they were taken down before most
harpooning, but, apparently as in the painting on the site, sometimes they
were surprised and got caught taking down the mast and sails while
harpooning the whale. There are a number of rigs from a pulley wheel on
the bow to the rope blocks well back on each side. I prefer as near the
bow as possible so a quick change of direction would not pull the rope
under the bow and possibly flip the boat, but photos of real boats show a
lot of designs and preferences. I am using the wife's white stamping ink
to match the mast and gaff paint. I did use five layers of card to form
the gaff jaws. They are now as thick as the gaff shaft. I have taken
progressive photos as I build and will send to Scott and anyone who wants
to see them. I am using markers and Crayola pencils to color the edges as
needed. Really nice build of the kit! Did you put the rub bars on before
you curved the hull. I thought I would curve the hull then curve the two
layers of the strakes to fit so they did not fold? Do you think a running
line across the front of the aft deck with the bottom of the mainsail
attached would be appropriate. It would allow the boat to come about or
jibe and the sail to move from one side to the other without playing with
the restraining line? I used part of the mast dowel/skewer to form the aft
anchor post for the tow line.
Dennis
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