My method won't be of much use to you, but I give FP-4+ 3 1/2
minutes in HC:110 dilution C at 24ºC on speed 1 (slow) on my
Jobo processor. If I want to bump the contrast, I will increase
the time, perhaps to 4 or 5 minutes depending on the amount of
contrast increase I want. If I want lower contrast, I lower the
temperature.
I think if the highlights are blocked up, you have gone to far.
I gear my development to use a grade 3 filter for 35mm, or a
grade 2 filter for medium and large format.
Since you want a somewhat contrasty negative to start with, try
underexposing 1/3 stop from the manufacturers rated speed and
adding 25% to the manufacturers recommended developing time, but
decrease the agitation cycle to once per minute. I really don't
think that small tank developing can give even development, but
increasing the time between agitations is the best strategy I
have found to give even development using inversion agitation in
a small tank. Diluting the developer and extending the
processing time is also a good idea. With inversion agitation,
my aim point would be for a 10 minute development time, and I
would gear my dilution towards that goal.
After that, look closely at how you are printing the
resulting negatives. If they print easily on a grade 3 paper
(presuming 35mm) you can make very slight changes to bring them
to perfect. If they are gross to print, make larger corrections
to your technique. Only change one variable at a time either in
the darkroom or in the studio, or you won't know which change
wrought the result.
Here is a good testing method:
Shoot a 3 36 exposure rolls of your model. Don't change anything
for the test. It is a good idea to have the model hold a card
indicating the exposure used. Shoot one at the rated iso, shoot
one a stop and a half over, shoot the third a stop under. Go
into the darkroom and process a foot of film from each roll at
the recommended time, a foot of each roll at 50% over the
recommended time, and a foot of each at 30% less than the
recommended time.
This will give you 9 different developer/exposure combinations
to look at right off the start, and a lot of ability to make a
comparative analysis of what happens when you change variables.
This will give you a good idea for predicting what will happen
with future exposure development changes. It also leaves you
with half of each roll of film to fine tune the development of
the exposure development method that looked best. I have found
that it works best to surround the problem and work at it from
the ends. It is far easier to go too far and work backwards to
the correct exposure development combination than it is to sneak
up on it.
Hope this helps
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "herbet brasileiro" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: January 28, 2001 8:56 PM
Subject: Re: Fashion look
> What do you develop Fp4 in? Can you give me a hint on
> a development time to start? What am I going to be
> seeking by varying the development times? Almost
> completely blocked out highlights?
> Herbet.
>
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