I�ve got to comment here. After reading Bob�s post, I
went outside (Wednesday, February 12, 2003) with my
camera and Gossen Luna Pro light meter, # 4D51102.
 I shot a few scenes to check both instruments, then
shot them in tandem against a solid tan/light
brown/stucco exterior for my own references. I will
insert my observations after the relevant text.
I mounted a Hoya HMC 1b Skylight filter on the lens
(my old FA* 28-70mm F 2.8 zoom) and set the lens as
near to a 30 degree angle as I could. 
**My model of Gossen Luna Pro meter covers
approximately 30 degrees.  
________________________________
�--- Bob Blakely <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
All air/glass interfaces are an abrupt change in
impedance for the  electromagnetic energy impinging
on/passing through the interface.�

Light goes through the glass. A (any) lens acts just
like the overflow/outlet pipe in a toilet tank. As
long as water (light) stays below the top of the
overflow pipe, the water (light) can�t enter. Once the
water (light) reaches the top of the pipe, it flows
downward into the pipe.
(Omni-directionally in case of light). 
In a camera, the flow (light) strikes the sensor/film
plane. In both instances, the �flow� is in one
direction. Sure some light �bounces� around inside the
lens, but interior baffling in the lens usually
neutralizes any stray light long before it can reach
the film plane.   

�A portion of the light must be reflected at each
interface. In fact, the same amount of light will be
reflected at the inner interface as from the outer
interface.�

The light goes straight through. I don�t understand
why Bob stressed �must be�, though I had often
wondered about the way light behaves as it entered the
lens. Radio waves (light) generally travel in straight
lines unless acted upon by an outside force. A filter
is not such a force (unless it�s super filthy).      

�Lost light is not really the problem for a single
glass.�

�Lost� me here: �lost light�? Usually �Lost light� is
an issue only if there is a �filter factor�.

�What would you loose, a third of a stop at most?�

None, unless my PZ1p (set for eight segment,
multi-pattern readings) and Gossen light meter are
broken in the same manner. No loss of light with the
filter on! Had there been, the Luna Pro would have
registered the loss, or at least differed in its
reading, since there is was no filter covering its
sensor. No measurable differences in the light reading
by either instrument.   
In any case, a �third of a stop�? 

�Light reflected from the inner interface, reaches the
outer interface and a portion of that is reflected
back toward the film. Some is transmitted.�

I think I understand here that the light trapped
in-between the rear (uncoated) surface of the filter
and the surface of the front element, is nonetheless
forced down onto the film plane. It seems to me that
any light �bouncing� around, trapped in the space
between the two elements, would simply dissipate� or
have no effect at all. Surely it would not, of its own
volition, travel down onto the film/sensor.

�If the light is bright, such as a sun reflection off
chrome, the reflection will be seen because it's now
bright compared to the image. This is flair.�

??  

�You may try single coated optics, but by their very
nature, they can perform a  perfect impedance
transformation at only one wavelength.

??

�For this reason, single coated optics must have some
affect on color, that is, demonstrate some color cast,
however mild.�

Almost without exception, �optical� glass must meet
certain standards, one of which is its ability to
transmit light without imparting color to it. If the
filter is �optical� glass, coated or not, it will not
transmit color. 
FYI: The light passing through Pentax prime glass is
generally more Gamma neutral than either Canon or
Nikon. That is: some glass imparts a �warm� Gamma
reading while others may impart a �cool� (Nikon)
reading.  

�The reason for multi-coated optics is broad band 
impedance transformation.�

?? 

�Most of us don't think this way, but it is what's
happening.�

> Regards,
> Bob...
 _____________________________
> From: "Gregory L. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  
> > How important is it to have a coatings on all your
> filters?  A plain UV
> > filter might cost $10 while an SMC filter would
> cost $35.  I can't see how
> > it would matter much on the outer surface, a
> little bit of light would
> > just be lost.  But on the inner surface?�
Part of what I know is this: (in layman�s terms): 

A. A properly fitted lens hood stops more �flare�
producing light than any filter.
B. Shooting with wide to ultra-wide angle lenses
severely increases your chance for flare.
C. Multi-coating reduces flare. 
D. Our world-famed Pentax SMC lenses usually don�t
require multi-coated filters, just a filter to protect
the front element from�the elements. 
E. Mounting a coated or multi-coated filter on a
multi-coated lens always seemed redundant to me. 
F. A clear, impeccably clean, uncoated filter stops
nothing (except dirt and grease from touching the
front element of the lens).
G. A filter reduces the incidences of cleaning the
front element, which might harm the multi-coating on
the front element.
H. The filter also helps protect the filter�s screw-in
threads and the front element itself from impact
damage.
I. Any light that strikes the filter/lens elements at
such an angle that lets light into the interior
surfaces of the lens might cause flare.
J. Light striking the film plane will cause flare. 

*Some people say �flare� as if it�s always a bad
thing. 
Many photographers shoot in a manner that deliberately
introduces flare.

In my unscientific measurements, taking a set of
readings, filter on and filter off, there was no
discernable differences in the two sets of readings:
none. 
If there were, tunnoticeablell, unnoticeable even to
my not so agile eyes. As I changed angles of attack on
the wall, the light and camera meters kept in
quantitative (light value) sync. 
 
I shoot a lot of 100mm and up telephoto. At 200mm and
more, I always have an impeccably clean multi-coated
filter (usually a Hoya 1b) screwed onto the lens, then
a steel lens hood (usually a HAMA). Why my lens hood
fetish? 
To increase saturation and block stray light. 





--- Bob Blakely <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> All air/glass interfaces are an abrupt change in
> impedance for the
> electromagnetic energy impinging on/passing through
> the interface. A portion
> of the light must be reflected at each interface. In
> fact, the same amount
> of light will be reflected at the inner interface as
> from the outer
> interface. Lost light is not really the problem for
> a single glass. What
> would you loose, a third of a stop at most? Light
> reflected from the inner
> interface, reaches the outer interface and a portion
> of that is reflected
> back toward the film. Some is transmitted. If the
> light is bright, such as a
> sun reflection off chrome, the reflection will be
> seen because it's now
> bright compared to the image. This is flair. You may
> try single coated
> optics, but by their very nature, they can perform a
> perfect impedance
> transformation at only one wavelength. For this
> reason, single coated optics
> must have some affect on color, that is, demonstrate
> some color cast,
> however mild.
> 
> The reason for multi-coated optics is broad band
> impedance transformation.

Whatever, since this simple mind cannot comprehend
that.  I know some filters have "filter factors"
(alters or slows down light transmission) bby one to
four and  half stops. Some filters alter color
rendition as in blue, 80 series filters letting in
more blorangeblocking red-orLikege (or something lke
that). B&W filters almost always have filter factors.

But UV, Skylight and a few others do what they do
without altering anything other than maybe color.  

Matt
I get it done with YAHOO! DSL!
_______________________________ 
> From: "Gregory L. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> 
> > How important is it to have a coatings on all your
> filters?  A plain UV
> > filter might cost $10 while an SMC filter would
> cost $35.  I can't see how
> > it would matter much on the outer surface, a
> little bit of light would
> > just be lost.  But on the inner surface?

 


=====

Matt Greene

I get it done with YAHOO! DSL!

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