Frantisek, My JOBO's an ATL1000, but the CPA2+LIFT uses the same series drums and tanks, and I used a CPP2+LIFT over 20 years ago when it first came out, so I'm sure you'll be happy with it. In fact the CP*2 processors have a bigger film capacity and maximium print size, and the ATL1000 and ATL1500 need to be attended to collect the used chemicals seperately if they're being re-used, so it's a toss-up for which is the handier processor.
Q: > 1) do you prerinse? I tried prerinse of ~4-5min on my B&W, then > developed as normal Emofin times for rotary processing. The negs were > good. But I don't know if other developers will need it too. A: Prints need pre-rinsing, for b&w films it's optional but would call for a little extra developing time, for colour films it's not recommended. The chemical filling and draining times are very fast so I don't believe it's an issue, therefore Caveman will now insist that it is :-) JOBO's recommendation is to temper the tank plus films (but no presoak) for several minutes in the water jacket before commencing the process. Q: > 2) Rodinal - I have heard it's doesn't go well with rotary dev? > > 3) if Rodinal doesn't work well with it, it will be a problem, because > I use only Emofin and Rodinal, nothing else. Rodinal for the nice > tonality and compensation, Emofin for speed. Any good tips for similar > developer good for rotary dev? A: Ex PDML correspondent Aaron Reynolds found that Studional Liquid worked well with rotary processing in place of Rodinal which didn't perform well with rotary processing. Q: > 4) What's a good way to clean the tempering bath, it's full of E6 gunk > and mush. I cleaned lot of it with mild acid, and it worked very well > for the tanks and reels, but not so well for the bath. A: Kodak once made a solution called "System Cleaner" which worked well but I don't know if it's still around. JOBO makes a processor cleaner that I would guess is similar to Kodak's. One of the citrus oil based cleaners e.g. "Goo Gone" might be good but I'd first test an out-of-the-way area of the plastic to ensure it doesn't etch the surface. I occasionally steam clean my JOBO which works well. I also put an overrated fuse on the power circuit that the JOBO is using, just for the duration of film processing, as a precaution against interruption of the process. That shouldn't be a hazard as long as you ensure that the total current load of the circuit is within its capacity, and get the normal fuse back in straight afterwards. You should be certain that your wiring is in good condition if you do this. regards, Anthony Farr
