[EMAIL PROTECTED] napisa� / wrote:
> Lasse, our uniforms are the white ones. I never thought about them
> influencing the metering. Although in these shots from Saturday I wasnt that
> close, but that is a good thought to keep in mind. I didnt use the Achiever
> 260 this time because the lens that I was using, along with the tele, seems
> to not want to focus in auto so I was focusing manually and I knew from
> experience that the Achiever would not flash in manual. I know a little about
> light compensating but not much. Actually not a whole lot at all. I can see
> there is a whole lot of this that I havent a clue about, like the second
> shutter sync. Is this where you set the tv at a slower speed?
Bright areas of the scene, as well as dark ones, if being relatively large, tend to
fool the camera's meters. The meters are calibrated to see the scene as 18% grey. This
means that if the scene consists of large bright areas, in our case white uniforms,
the
meter will underexpose it - it will try to make the white uniforms 18% grey:) But not
only you will get grey uniforms instead of nice, white ones. You will also get any
potential darker areas of the scene totally black, without any details in them. And
reversely, if there are large, dark areas in your scene, your meter will overexpose
the
scene to get that 18% grey. It means that any bright areas of the scene will
be "burned" - white, without any details. So the point is to correct the exposure
parameters set by your camera, either by manually adjusting aperture and shutter speed
in reference to the meter's reading, or by pressing the Exposure Correction Button, if
the camera has one. BTW, in fact, the only parameter you would want to correct is the
shutter speed, since changing the aperture would influence the depth of field. The
exact value of the correction, which should be applied, is the matter of experience
and
(in my opinion:)) taste. And, instead of constantly using pretty long terms,
like "aperture opening", "shutter speed" and more related to the exposure parameters,
latitude and so on, photographers use an abstract term "Exposure Value", or shortly -
EV. As for the exposure correction, there are two direction of it: overexposing or "+"
and underexposing or "-". If there's a risk of underexposing the scene by your camera,
you should correct it in "+" (overexpose it), and reversely. Usually, the necessary
correction isn't greater than +/- 2EV.
Well, that's but a short beginning of the subject. Feel free to ask us, if you need
further explanation. I also recommend you a following site: http://www.photo.net There
you'll find a whole bunch of useful stuff you need to know.
Greetz
Artur
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Sisters and brothers, in metal unite.
The dreams that you had are about to come true.
The voice of the Warrior is calling for you!"
Hammerfall "The Way of the Warrior"
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