I frequently use an incident meter and a spotmeter. I use the spotmeter
to determine a value for the part of the scene that is most critical. I
use the incident meter to compare that reading to the ambient light. If
there is a discrepancy, I know which way I want to bracket. Sometimes I
just use the spotmeter and gray card in lieu of the incident meter.
Paul
Bob Walkden wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> this is true enough for a reflected light reading. For an incident
> light reading you can take the meter-indicated reading, although with
> the sun close to its zenith you should shield the lower part of the
> dome from upward reflections.
>
> According to Sekonic snow has a reflectivity of approx 73%, declining
> to about 60% after several days in urban areas.
>
> Every photographer should have an incident light meter.
>
> ---
>
> Bob
>
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> Saturday, April 14, 2001, 1:43:22 PM, you wrote:
>
> > The choice of exposure is dependent on what you want the value of the
> > object to be in the transparency or print, whether it be snow or coal.
> > Remember that the meter thinks everything is gray with 18% reflectivity.
> > That's the baseline. In the zone system, it's called zone 5. If you
> > shoot full-frame snow at the meter reading, and your meter is accurate,
> > the snow will be 18% gray, or approximately the color of snow in
> > downtown Detroit. If you want white snow with some visible texture,
> > you're talking about zone 7 for most films, zone 8 for some. Each zone
> > is an f-stop, so if you want white snow, you'll overexpose by about two
> > stops. If you're not familiar with a film, you might want to bracket
> > from 1 1/2 to 3 stops over.
> > Paul
>
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