Hi Tom,
I use a modified stroboframe bracket to hold the flash and allow me to put it right out over the end of the lens. This is pretty handy. With the AF360FTZ, I use the diffuser panel as a 'soft box' and don't seem to have as many dramas with 'hotspots' as I did with AF500's.
Cheers
Shaun
Tom Reese wrote:
Don Sanderson asked:
"I just read an article saying that flash was the best way to shoot macro shots. It cited the fact that both faster shutter speed to prevent blur and smaller aperture for added DOF could be used. I have several Pentax TTL units to try this out with. Have any of you tried this? What setup did you use ? Did you LIKE the results? I'd always imagined the light would be too harsh to look "natural"."
I use a ringflash or the AF360FGZ for macro flash work but I prefer to work with natural light when possible.
Bugs can be extremely reflective and I hate the bright highlights I get with flash. Ringlights give you very (or no) soft shadows when used on the lens and odd looking circular highlights on round reflective surfaces (I have a slide of some ants attacking a caterpillar with multiple highlights on the ants). Those highlights are the main reason I prefer to work with natural light.
Ringflashes can give you soft shadows that give you the three dimensional look in your pictures if you use it off the lens. I mount my camera on a tripod and hold the ringlight off to the side. In my experience, a normal flash used in this manner throws shadows that are too strong to look right. YMMV.
Ringlights allow you to work very closely to your subject without worrying about the lens blocking the flash. I use my AF360FGZ (it tilts slightly downward - very helpful) when I'm not working quite so close. Ringlights are generally too weak to use at any distance.
I hope this helps.
Tom Reese
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