Using any meter (including the one in the camera) requires
some knowledge and common sense. A spot meter makes sense
with a view camera and the zone system.
However, I think that an incident light meter is better for
general photography. It gives you an 18% gray reading every
time. If you want more detail in the shadows you open up one
or two stops. For more highlight detail you close down a
stop. You can not have both, no matter what type meter you
use. If you want maximum detail over all the incident meter
will nail the center and the film latitude will will give
you the widest highlight to shadow range. Your paper grade
will determine the final contrast range on the print for
B&W, for color an incident meter will nail the best exposure
every time.
Using these techniques I have several times had lab people
comment how consistent my exposure from frame to frame was.
--Tom
Shel Belinkoff wrote:
>
> Maybe ... but essentially I disagree with that statement. If the
> scene is an average scene, then an incident meter can be useful.
> However, add some deep shadows and some very bright highlights, and
> you're not going to get a reading that will allow for the best
> exposure, i.e., relying on what the incident meter tells you won't
> give you the opportunity to place shadow or highlight values.
> Further, there will be little opportunity to really learn about
> light and exposure. With a 1-degree spot meter you you can meter
> every part of the scene, and know exactly where the values will be
> and what you have to do to properly expose the film and what
> development will be needed.
>
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe,
go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to
visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
