Gerald,
Were you by any chance a Motie in any of you previous incarnations? <g>
Seriously, I'm quite impressed. I think you ought to put up a web page when
you are done and embarass the hell out of Kodak with it. Hope you saved
some of your "before" slides so you can do some side by sides.
Dan Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Short list of changes already made to my Kodak RFS3600 scanner:
>
>WARRANTY VOIDANCE ALERT! Any of these changes below will void the warranty.
>Do not try this at home. :)
>
>1. Removed flocking from film path to reduce scratching and dust buildup.
>2. Drill a hole in film path mechanism above each of 3 film strip sensors
>3. Put bits of flocking above holes so sensor would work again due to #1's
>change
>4. Put flocking inside the light path housing to reduce reflections, mirror
>to lens area only at this point.
>5. Precisely calibrated and aligned CCD and light path to get squared-up
>scans of full frame film strips, not just full frame slides(slides are now
>undersized with a black border.)
>6. Precisely adjusted focus for a temp-stabilized software setting of 10 out
>of a range of 1-20 (at 15-20, the film buckles, out of the box, mine
>preferred 18 after warm-up!).
>7. Added 2 missing screws to film focusing carriage (it was separating at
>the rear at higher focus settings, causing the film to lean and twist
>slightly during focusing).
>8. Added 2 missing M3x24 pins to the better align the film focusing carriage
>(it was tilting on just 2 pins when scanning the first or last frame in a
>strip).
>9. Drilled out holes slightly in film focusing carriage because after #8 the
>carriage bound due to a pin mount misalignment production defect.
>
>Still to do:
>
>1. Flock remainder of light path, lens to CCD section (4 sq ft of .030 black
>flocking arrived yesterday!)
>2. Add 5 miniature turnbuckles (mounted with 00-90 hardware) to 3 major
>light path components (CCD, lens, CCD housing), to assist in better
>calibration as the unit currently just has floating parts and set screws to
>hold them in place.
>3. Replace the drive belt between the 2 pinch rollers (right and left of
>carriage) with one that is 1 or 2 teeth longer, and add a weak tensioner
>roller if needed - this should allow enough slack for the film to be pulled
>inward from the right and left simultaneously when focusing, reducing
>buckling and warping of the film.
>4. Epoxy 4 3mm ID washers to the bottom of the film carriage, in order to
>reduce slop and misalignment in its motion during focusing.
>5. Drill top rear of case and mount and 60mm fan, blowing inward with
>hepafilter level filtration - this will cool the unit, and limit focusing
>shift over time due to thermal expansion: unit will temp stabilize quicker,
>and at a lower temp and hence less cold-warm focus difference.
>6. Add thin strips of flocking to sprocket hole portion of film carriage, to
>increase film edge flatness even more during scanning (it is currently loose
>enough to see slight ripples in the film edge while it is being scanned).
>
>This has been and will be a lot of work, but it's ability to scan Velvia's
>colors almost perfectly the first time is pretty amazing, and when the
>scanner does actually get the focus right on the emulsion layer (and not on
>the dust on the other side), it is crystal clear, much better than my
>previous 2400 dpi S20.
>
>If anyone else has an RFS3600 and is interested, I could make a few digicam
>pics tomorrow when I complete the modifications.
>
>Cheers,
>Gerald
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