Removing the mounting ring is not dificult but to fix anything you
probably need to get to the aperture blades and that is not easy for
someone with no experience. You also should practice with some cheaper
prime lens (like a 50mm F2.0), zoom lenses are a lot more complicated.
I also think your seller has taken the lens apart and failed to fix it,
if not how could he know the tiny ball is missing? Now he wants you to
do it so he can pass on the responsability. Don't do it.
There are two balls:
- the A contact ball - if it is missing the lens will not tell the
camera when it is in A mode;
does the camera sense your lens is in A mode? If not you have yet
another problem,
I have a lens like that and I'm waiting to get a 2mm metal ball
- the ring click ball - it just does the click click click when you turn
the ring, the lens will work without it
The lock in A mode is done by a diferent spring and the lens should also
work without it.
I think you should find a Pentax repairman and show him the lens, he'll
tell you what is wrong and you probably will enjoy talking to him. Don't
do any damage yourself or the issue will get more complicated from your
side, it will get simpler for the seller. Remember Ebay seller value
their feedback rate.
...and if the diaphragm works but is slow, then it probably has oil on
the aperture blades. The oil was either put there by some "clever" guy
(I know of a professional photographer who did that) or it has dripped
from the focus helicoid. The blades must be completely dry, any
lubrication will make the turn slow. Point a bright lamp into the
interior of the lens and look at the blades while you move the aperture
lever by hand back and forward.
The repairman will clean it easilly, he just puts them overnight in
isopropilic alcohol after he takes the lens apart.
Tim Øsleby wrote:
I had a chat with the seller. He sounded like a fair guy. But most people
seem fair when they want to.
He suggested the same thing, trying to fix it on my own. I need a small
screwdriver.
He also suggested it might have been hurt during transport. For some reason
the rear cap was missing. The one thing I did not like was that he (the
seller) started talking about a tiny ball, that's supposed to lock it in
auto. He suggested it might be missing (a strange thing to say).
Anyway. I'm diving into it tomorrow, after a good night sleep.
Tim
Not drunk, just plain Norwegian.
Never underestimate the power of stupidity in large crowds
(Very freely after Arthur C. Clarke, or some other clever guy)
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Sanderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 1. juli 2005 02:32
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Follow upon: Vivitar Series 1 P/K 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3
I understand now.
It could still be the tension spring, but the jamming at full aperture
worries me.
I have a bad feeling a repair has been attempted on this lens and
either it was incorrectly assembled, or damaged during the repair.
**If it were me** I would carefully remove the mount and see if I
could fix it. But fixing things is what I've done all my life.
If you try to fix it, be careful not to make it worse, and do it
soon so you can let the seller know as soon as possible that you
need a refund.
As broken as it is you can't lose by trying to repair it, just be
fair to the seller and be sure to return it (if you must) in as
good a condition as you got it.
One last note though, the non-locking "A" position usually
means that a part is broken, or missing. (In my experience)
I do have one of theses lenses and will be happy to help, if I can.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Øsleby [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 7:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Follow upon: Vivitar Series 1 P/K 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3
Don.
1. No. And tapping does not help; the only thing helping is to move the
aperture control lever manually.
2. When moving the aperture control lever, the aperture opens and closes.
Almost as it is supposed to do. If I move to near full opening, it slides
back again when I let it go, but a bit slower than normal. On full opening
it doesn’t go back at all, they are jammed.
I also have to use a bit more force at the full open end.
Understand, or still confused?
BTW. Like your new signature ;-)
Tim
Not drunk, just plain Norwegian.
Never underestimate the power of stupidity in large crowds
(Very freely after Arthur C. Clarke, or some other clever guy)
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Sanderson [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 1. juli 2005 01:32
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: Follow upon: Vivitar Series 1 P/K 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3
Tim, I'm not clear on what the lens is doing, let me ask a couple of
questions:
1. With the lens OFF the camera set the aperture ring to f/16,
does the lens
stop down to a small aperture? Does tapping it with your fingers help?
2. Still set at f/16 rotate the aperture control lever on the back of the
lens
slowly through its travel, what happens?
I tend to suspect the aperture return spring AND that someone has
attempted
repair, hence the broken "A" position lock.
Don (Not drunk, just of Norwegian heritage.) ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Øsleby [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2005 11:45 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Follow upon: Vivitar Series 1 P/K 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3
I have got the lens today. I was much exited (relax I'm not
going to talk
dirty this time), even though it is a beauty. It came without
lens cap and
rear cap, but never the less. Not a scratch, zoom and focus is
simply soft
as butter. What surprised me a bit was that it wouldn't lock in
A-modus, is
this normal for this lens?
I flew out to do some test shots. A baby seagull was swimming
around in the
tide area, and I fired away. But it turned out to be a real
downer. Every
picture was strongly overexposed. After some research I have
came to this
conclusion: It is not working properly at any aperture except wide open.
I'm able to manipulate the aperture by pushing the level in the
mount. But
what seems to be the case is that it gets stuck at wide open.
It looks like it barely has been in touch with a camera house. It
isn’t full
of dirt, and I don’t believe it has been tampered with in any
way. Visually
it is in perfect condition.
I have a theory. I believe it hat been stored for many year
wide open, and
this may have coursed the aperture spring(is this the English word?). So
what do I do, except returning it? It seems to perform well,
wide open. Is
it a major operation to open it and have a look? And what do I
look for? And
does anybody have any better theories?
Never underestimate the power of intelligence in large crowds ;-)
Tim
Not drunk, just plain Norwegian. (And a bit let down)
Never underestimate the power of stupidity in large crowds
(Very freely after Arthur C. Clarke, or some other clever guy)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Øsleby [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 16. juni 2005 14:26
To: [email protected]
Subject: Vivitar Series 1 P/K 70-210/2.8-4.0 Version 3
There was a thread on a similar lens. Got the Version 3 (manufactured by
Komine) on hand for about 75 US$. Is this a good lens?
Tim
Another Norwegian.
