Thanks Godfrey. I was wondering why you didn't respond immediately. You've been 
busy <g>. What you posted before sounded complicated because it was detailed. I 
tend to oversimplify. I appreciate the clarification and your evaluative tests. 
I've always wondered if I was losing a lot with my color space. Apparently, if 
there's any loss, it's minor. I have tried Colorsync color settings with Adobe 
98 color space, and the results were not pleasing. I will try the North America 
Prepress settings one of these days, but I'm always a little leer of change 
when things are going well. 
Paul


> Paul,
> 
> You set up all the specifics with the workflow I presented exactly  
> the same way you do with the ColorSync workflow. Steps 0, 1 and 2 are  
> identical except for using the NAPP/A-RGB setting vs the ColorSync/ 
> Generic-RGB settings. You can set up the same bundle of settings at  
> the printer as a one-step pick as well.
> 
> Regards the question, "..is there any real advantage..?":
> 
> In seeking enlightenment with a ColorSync workflow, I did the  
> experiment: took a test photo and printed six times as follows ...
> ---
> Did a calibration check on the monitor with the Gretag-Macbeth Eye  
> One Display colorimeter, generated new profile (profile analysis  
> demonstrate it to be identical to 1 month old one for all practical  
> purposes) and set the screen to use it.
> -
> Image file converted from RAW and output with 16bit per channel RGB,  
> Adobe RGB color profile.
> -
> ** I don't have an Epson 2200 to work with at present, only an HP  
> 7960 for color output. The 7960 probably has a slightly larger gamut  
> (dye inks vs pigment inks) but I suspect that Epson's profiles for  
> the 2200 are a bit better since I know who produced them... ;-) **
> 
> Photoshop CS2 ColorSync color settings
> Document profile converted to ColorSync Generic sRGB
> print 1 - Photoshop controls color, HP Premium Plus Glossy paper, HP  
> driver ColorSync setting
> print 2 - Printer controls color, HP Premium Plus Glossy paper, HP  
> driver ColorSync setting
> 
> Photoshop CS2 North America Prepress settings
> Document profile retained as Adobe RGB (1998)
> print 3 - Photoshop controls color, HP Premium Plus Glossy paper, HP  
> driver ColorSync setting
> print 4 - printer controls color, HP Premium Plus Glossy paper, HP  
> driver ColorSync setting
> print 5 - Photoshop controls color, HP Premium Plus Glossy paper, HP  
> driver ColorSmart III setting
> print 6 - printer controls color, HP Premium Plus Glossy paper, HP  
> driver ColorSmart III setting
> -
> Results:
> Print 5 is the clear odd man out. Glarey, higher gamma, yellowish  
> cast in shadows, more exaggerated whites.
> 
> Prints 1,2,3,4, & 6 are very close under standard tungsten room light.
> .. Under kitchen flourescent lighting, 1 & 3 have brighter, cleaner  
> tones ...
>     shadow values go a little muddy; #3 is a bit warmer in faces and  
> shadow values.
> .. Under balanced 5000 deg K viewing box, #3 and #1 present closest  
> by-eye match to screen.
> .. Under shaded sunlight, 1,3,6 are again very close, with #3 being a  
> slightly closer eye-match.
> 
> My conclusion is that there is a small benefit from using A-RGB and  
> North America Pre-Press color settings. It's probably a greater  
> difference if you're working from a JPEG image. Here's the difference  
> in histogram profiles from Adobe RGB (16bit), and Generic sRGB  
> (16bit) - Generic sRGB (8bit) conversions:
> 
>    http://homepage.mac.com/godders/profile-comparison.jpg
> 
> Note the relationship of the Red and Green left-side tails in the A- 
> RGB vs sRGB histograms ... sRGB is likely clipping a bit, it might  
> explain some of the subtle color shifting happening in the shadow  
> values.
> 
> The good news, of course, is that printing with *any* color  
> management scheme that uses at least decent profiles is going to  
> produce superior results to printing source files without color  
> management. I converted the file to 8bit, converted profile to sRGB  
> and output it as an untagged JPEG file. I then reopened it and told  
> Photoshop not to color manage it, produced two more prints... Not  
> even worth analyzing, the color balances are strikingly different  
> from the above 1,2,3,4,6 prints and don't match the screen display  
> very well at all.
> 
> In short, profiling the screen and using color management workflow  
> are the two fundamental keys to getting consistent, repeatable  
> output. As long as you're working with a decent color management  
> workflow and tools, you'll get results that shift only by subtleties.  
> The differences will become more significant depending upon specific  
> printer/ink/paper printing systems. Having the OS fully color  
> managed, as Mac OS X is, also presents an advantage in that more  
> applications will take advantage of embedded ICC profiles and render  
> photos with better accuracy.
> 
> Godfrey
> 
> On Sep 12, 2005, at 8:53 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> > Wow! That's far more complex than using colorsynch workflow. I  
> > merely go to page setup to select paper size and positiong, then  
> > choose my paper in the print dialogue box and dial in the desired  
> > resolution and color management. Having done that once, however, I  
> > can save the paper with the resolution and color managment choices.  
> > After that, it's a one step process. Is there any real advantage to  
> > going through all that you've outlined below? I will have to give  
> > it a try, but I can't really see anything in my prints that I would  
> > want to change. I get exactly the results I want with no muss or fuss.
> > Paul
> >
> > Godfrey wrote:
> >> t's pretty much the same when working with Photoshop for both Mac OS
> >> and Windows. Mac OS X's built in color management makes life easier,
> >> but the workflow is the same.
> >>
> >> 0) calibrate monitor, whether you use a software utility or a
> >> hardware colorimeter.
> >> 1) set up Photoshop's color preferences for a color managed workflow
> >>     (I use the "North American Pre-press defaults" as a basis and
> >> customize that a little bit.)
> >> 2) When converting RAW format files, set the output colorspace to
> >> match the working
> >>     colorspace you use in Photoshop.
> >> 3) When it comes time to print, use the "Print with Preview" command.
> >> In that dialog, use
> >>     the Page Setup dialog to set printer parameters, the sizing and
> >> other tools to center and
> >>     align the output, and use the color management options to pick
> >> color management settings.
> >>     - set the popup to let Photoshop manage colors
> >>     - set the intent to "relative colormetric"
> >>     - pick the output profile per your printer/paper
> >>     That's all Photoshop controls.
> >>     - then press the Print button. Now you're in the print driver's
> >> control space
> >>     In the print dialog, turn off all color management at the  
> >> printer.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> 

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