OK, that all makes sense. There wasn't a diffuser with it but I guess I can find a suitable substitute. The key seems to be sticking to a repeatable process.
Regards, Paul Ewins Melbourne, Australia -----Original Message----- From: William Robb [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Cibachrome Exposure Monitor M-1 I don't know that particular unit, but generaly, exposure monitors work thusly: First, you have to start with a properly exposed print (base exposure, no dodging or burning), and have that negative (slide) in the carrier. Try and start with a fairly average scene that is properly exposed as a reference. There is probably a diffuser attachment that came with the thing, (I have an exposure monitor in my kit that attaches to the side of a modified Rodenstock lens that has a built in diffuser). So, you have your neg or slide in the carrier, and you know what aperture and exposure time it requires. You want an aperture that is fairly close to the center of the range, if your lens goes from f/2.8 - f/22, your correct exposure should be done around f/8, as you are locking yourself into an exposure duration. You put the diffuser under the lens and put the sensor of the monitor under the lens axis (very important). Turn on the monitor and calibate it so both lights are on. Now, when you want to print a different slide/ negative, you put it into the carrier, put the diffuser into the light path, set the time to the predetermined exposure time, put the monitor on the easle on the lens axis (very important) and adjust the lens aperture until both lights are on. This will put you in the ballpark. The closer your calibration neg is to average, and the closer your working neg is to average, the better these things work. William Robb
