Vic, I don't remember what you are shooting with. You can use TTL flash on the AF280 with a Super Program or LX or PZ-1... That makes it all simple. Set the aperture to f4 or f2.8 and fire away. TTL will fix it all for you. Regards, Bob S.
On 12/18/05, Vic Mortelmans <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello Don, > > Thanks! Clarifies already a lot. > > When in auto red mode and using ISO200 film, the flash says to use f/5.6 > aperture. These settings, when using the flash in manual mode (=maximum > power?), would give a reach of 7m (24ft). That's not quite a lot, > considering all light-loss factors that you mention before, which > explains why I couldn't get proper exposure for bounce flash in auto > mode (even if it is not optimally "formed"---which I will certainly try > out). > > Basically, the conclusion seems that the flash is (even theoretically) > not powerful enough for bounce flash in auto mode (at f/5.6,ISO200). > Using another film is no solution, as the flash compensates f-value for > ISO-value. > > Something I could try is to switch to TTL-mode, so I can set the > aperture to whatever I want (f/2 e.g.) and use more sensitive film. This > will stretch my bouncing-range significantly, I'd imagine. > > Does this reasoning sound sane? > > > Groeten, > > Vic > > > > Don Sanderson wrote: > > Hi Vic, > > > > There are a few things to remember when using bounce > > flash: > > 1.) A ceiling, even a white one, diffuses and absorbs > > a lot of light. Losing 1-3 stops of light isn't > > uncommon. > > 2.) When bouncing, the distance from flash to subject > > increases dramatically, it becomes the distance from > > flash to ceiling plus from ceiling to subject. Since > > light decreases in proportion to the _square_ of the > > distance, doubling the distance decreases the light > > to 1/4. > > 3.) When bouncing, the flash should be aimed about 1/2 > > way to the subject, aiming straight up puts most of > > the light on you, not the subject. This is most > > evident when the ceiling is low. Think of bouncing a > > rubber ball off the ceiling and hitting the subject. > > > > Also, if this is a flash that has not been used for > > a while it has probably lost a good bit of its power. > > This can be remedied by "forming" the capacitor in > > the flash. > > To do this let the flash charge up for several minutes > > and then fire it in manual to get a full discharge. > > Repeat this 10-20 times, this should bring the > > capacitor back to near full efficiency. > > > > The 280t is a very good flash, it is still a _current > > model_, pretty impressive in this day and age! > > > > HTH > > Don > > > > > >>-----Original Message----- > >>From: Vic Mortelmans [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2005 3:57 AM > >>To: pentax epostlijst > >>Subject: Bounce flash AF280T > >> > >> > >>Hello, > >> > >>I recently bought a used Pentax AF280T, with auto and TTL features. This > >>flash should be capable for being used for bounce flash, isn't it? > >> > >>When I use the 'test' button, I only get the green light when aiming the > >>flashlight directly to the subject. Even in a room with a low, white > >>ceiling, I couln't get the green light when aiming the flashlight to the > >>ceiling (completely vertical, or at an angle slightly towards the > >>subject). The flash was in auto-mode. I tried both green and red mode. > >> > >>What does this mean? I had the impression that this flash is quite > >>powerful, even to today's standards? What's the use of combining > >>swiveling flashhead and auto/TTL measuring features if they won't work > >>together? > >> > >>Not wanting to use direct flash, I ended up opening two stops above the > >>flash-indicated setting, hoping this will give me acceptable exposure... > >>(results to be expected still). > >> > >>Slightly disappointed greetings, but with remaining hope that someone of > >>you will let mee see the light... > >> > >>Groeten, > >> > >>Vic > >> > > > > > > > > > >
