Hi Shel,
I would urge you to find and acquire an ESII. There are several differences
that make it much more practical to use than the ES.
First, the ESII has batteries that are easier to find (S76). On top of
that, battery consumption is said to be lower.
Second, the range of valid shutter speeds is displayed in the view finder.
While both the ES and ESII have speeds shown, the ES displayed range is 1
sec to 1/1000 while the ESII displays 8 sec to 1/1000. In truth both
cameras have the same shutter speed range capability but it seems to make
more sense to show the full range as does the ESII.
Next, as a substitute for cable release, the ESII has a self-timer while the
ES does not. It is interruptible, unlike the Spotmatic timer, there is a
lever that is used to activate and stop the timer before the cycle is
complete.
The ES and ESII cameras, as you know, have automatic electronic shutters.
Consequently, the constantly changing meter reading can be problematic if
the camera is set up on a tripod with light entering the viewfinder. With
your face and eye covering the viewfinder, the meter reading is accurate but
when you take your eye away, light entering the viewfinder will change the
meter reading, and therefore, the actual exposure. The ES had a plastic cap
like that for the K2 and ME Super that could be used to close the viewfinder
and prevent this. One more piece to keep track of... The ESII has a
built-in blind that is activated by a second Automatic setting that
mechanically closes it but leaves the meter active, allowing for correct
exposure in these conditions. It's a fussy detail but I find it handy.
The position occupied by the battery on the ES is taken by the self timer on
the ESII. The ESII has a shutter release lock. The meter is activated by a
light touch to the shutter. I have never found the difference required to
activate the meter and to fire the camera to be hard to distinguish. In
fact, it continues to make me ponder why Asahi did not use the shutter
release-activated meter switch on the Spotmatic F. It is so much nicer.
OK, so those differences, I believe, make a very strong case for the ESII.
Believe me, even with the small differences they represent, it makes a big
difference in practical use. As for the camera, now speaking in general
terms that apply to both, the shift from a camera like the Spotmatic F,
where you enjoy open-aperture metering, but must independently select the
shutter speed and aperture, to the ES/ESII where you select only the
aperture and the shutter speed is "selected for you", is quite worthwhile.
At first I eschewed the notion of an "automatic" camera because, as a
rangefinder and medium format user, I felt strongly about choosing my own
exposure combination with a hand-held meter, or as with the Spotmatic, using
the center-needle. The idea of having my exposure settings "made for me"
was not appealing. But when I got an ESII to use, I soon found that this
"automatic" feature could more accurately be characterized as "remote
control" of the shutter speed. One of my gripes about the Spotmatic cameras
had always been the lack of information displayed in the viewfinder. While
I don't feel the need to see aperture (depth-of-field preview tells me what
I need to know there), the shutter speed was meaningful information to have,
to remind me of whether or not I would be able to capture the instant as
desired. Often I would get a meter reading with the Spotmatic, shoot and
hear an ungodly long shutter time, realizing that I would not have a clear
image. If the shot could be exposed again, no great loss, but for action
and the like, "Oh well...".
Enter the ESII. Now I have a shutter speed preview, and I no longer need to
run both the aperture ring and the shutter speed dial. This frees me to pay
more attention to the subject, quickly bias the shutter speed for action (if
needed) or the aperture for a desired depth-of-field, without constantly
fiddling the shutter speed dial (the camera is "running that control"). So
it is automatic, but because of the coupling that takes place, it also
reduces needless mechanical fussing. More about exposure compensation in a
second.
With the open aperture metering, the screen stays as bright as possible.
This is especially welcome in street shooting quickness can make a big
difference. I still find myself in the "Spotmatic Habit" of getting a meter
reading, checking depth of field, then shooting, but for times when
depth-of-field has either been preselected or is of no concern (is it ever,
really?), the open aperture metering really is a blessing.
Exposure compensation is the Achilles heel of the camera. It consists of
nothing more than a large ring outside the ASA setting dial that is marked
with 1/2x 1x 2x 4x markings. As this dial is rotated to the chosen marking,
it biases the automation by the indicated factor. The same could be
accomplished by changing the ASA, but of course this big knob is easier to
operate and set. The down side is that it stays set to the compensation
factor until to put it back. There is no viewfinder reminder that this has
been done. Easy to forget, the operators manual encourages a habit of
set-shoot-reset as a matter of course. I am still trying to make it
instinctive. The other problem with the exposure compensation is that you
pretty much need to "know" what is needed. One way I use it is: get a meter
reading using the camera much the way one might use a hand meter (move in
close), frame the subject for my image, and adjust the exposure compensation
to bring me back to the setting I saw when I was in close, then shoot.
Unfortunately, this move in close and meter approach would be made easier by
a "lock in" system where you hold the shutter button down when the reading
is right, then move the camera and shoot, but no such luck.
The other "bummer" is the manual range of speeds. There are precious few
settings (B, 1/60x. 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000), and meterless... This is
your failsafe mode for when the batteries die, Better than nothing. I
thought this would be a bigger problem than it has turned out to be. I have
found the automatic mode to be a natural way to shoot and thus the manual
mode really is redundant. I have used the manual mode, set to an exposure
combo determined using the auto mode, where I wanted to "lock in" a
particular combo for a series of shots, so it does have it's uses. I have
not run out of battery power but clearly, a mechanical alternative there is
good thinking.
In terms of what to look for when you purchase one, you do NOT want to buy
one that "works only on Manual". While this could be traced in many cases
to dead batteries or dirty contacts, it can also be a deeper problem that is
not often repairable in today's repair centers. If no parts are needed and
the shop is so inclined, you can probably get it fixed, but these two
criteria are not often found together in the same place, if you get my
drift. Dumbing of America and all that.
The cameras are often in great shape because they were not bought by hard
users. The usual foam deterioration is often found, no big deal to fix. I
would avoid buying one with anything other than the proper open-aperture
normal lens. Be aware that the ES cameras came with lenses labeled
"Super-Takumar", and conventional lens coating, but having open aperture
metering, so this is hard to detect in the typical eBay listing without
referring the seller to pictures that show the back of the lenses (on my
site) and asking the questions. But the ESII's all came with SMC lenses so
it is a no-brainer there.
I have had good fortune to find a nearly new ESII that works a charm. No
brassing, smooth operation, etc. I paid $180 without case or lens, but
think it a bargain. You will be best served using SMC, open-aperture
equipped lenses. If you have Super-Takumars that you want to use, you
simply flip the familiar switch, rotate the aperture ring, and shoot stopped
down. You loose the open aperture viewing and shooting. If you don't have
SMC screw mount lenses, this could be an expense not planned for. I don't
have this problem because I predetermined to buy only SMC lenses, and have
only a 17mm Fisheye, and SMC 400mm that operate in this stopped-down mode.
Not a big problem for me. That I will ever be able to flip my 17mm for the
SMC variety remains a challenge to be conquered.
Probably more than you wanted to know.
ppro
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