I get your point about the trailing curtain, John. But I normally don't want
motion blur at all. So,  I set the shutter speed in order to freeze (rather
slow) motion - anyway as long as I'm not using manual mode, the camera will
not allow shutter speeds longer than perhaps 1/20 sec. - depending on the
focal length of the lens I am using (in order to make the camera hand
holdable). I don't believe these lower speeds get any lower due to SR?

I want to make the most of the available light. Pictures made in total
darkness with a flash are not my cup of tea. The flash only freezes motion
in total darkness - in principle. So, the 1/10000 sec. issue is of no
importance to me.

So, I want the shutterpeed as slow as posible, without getting (to much)
motion blur.
I'd love to have a flsh progrm, that would mesure the available light and
then ad one stop for the falsh - this wasy the available light would only
"underexpose) the image by one stop. This mode is actually an "inverse fill
flash program".
regards

Jens Bladt

http://www.jensbladt.dk
+45 56 63 77 11
+45 23 43 85 77
Skype: jensbladt248

-----Oprindelig meddelelse-----
Fra: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] vegne af John
Francis
Sendt: 10. marts 2007 21:51
Til: Pentax-Discuss Mail List
Emne: Re: K10D - Flash Mode


On Sat, Mar 10, 2007 at 08:46:00PM +0100, Jens Bladt wrote:
> So which camera program do you use for flash photography?
> I have normally (PZ-1, MZ-S, '*ist D) used manual mode - setting the speed
> to freeze a reasonable amount of movement . . .

Well, that's a questionable methodology when relying on flash.
The effective shutter speed for anything where the flash is
the main source of illumination is the duration of the flash
burst (1/10,000 of a second or so), and nothing to do with
the time the shutter is open.

If there is significant illumination from sources other than
the flash then you need to take that into account; that's
when the other camera settings (shutter speed, aperture, ISO)
are important.  But you can't do much with shutter speed;
you are constrained to use a shutter speed slower than the
flash sync speed so the shutter is fully open at the time
the flash fires (unless you are using a camera and flash
that are capable of high-speed flash mode, of course, but
that introduces a whole new set of issues to consider).

I think the single recommendation I would make, if you are
expecting there to be any motion blur visible in the shot,
is to use trailing-curtain flash synchronisation; failing
to do that yields very odd images where the motion blur
appears to precede the sharply-exposed subject, rather than
trailing behind it (which we have been taught to perceive
as normal).


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