Wow, Cory, thanks!
 
I hadn't thought about checking the exposure around the complete arc, but  
that makes sense.
 
Marnie aka Doe :-)
 
=================
I've been very successful doing panos with as  little as 10-20% 
overlap.  The *biggest* thing IMO is what's been  mentioned that holding 
the exposure identical is really important.   Getting different contrast 
due to flare with varying light is also somewhat  important if the sun's 
anywhere near.

As far as  software, I have no idea how the commerical offerings 
for Winders/MacOS  work, but I do know that a lot of the open-source stuff 
I use is available  for Winders.  The main engine is PanoTools, of course, 
but the GUI  frontend I use is called 'hugin'.  It has a built-in error 
minimization  optimization engine to automatically determine lens 
correction factors,  differences in camera tilt, etc.  Way cool.

For me, here's the order  ofoperations.

- Set camera to RAW... with the amount of fiddling required  for panos, I 
doubt ANYONE (with the exception of a few insane zealouts like  Kenny-boy 
Rockwell) could argue that the flexibility won't be worth it.
-  Tripod (relatively level) is a good idea.
- Do test shots for exposure at all  prospective angles about the intended 
pano.  Make sure the highlights  don't blow out anywhere, and set the 
exposure to manual.
- Shoot all  frames, with at least 10-20% overlap.
- Convert RAW to deep-color TIFF with  identical WB and EV comp settings.
- Use 'autopano-sift' to try to  automatically generate the alignment 
points.
- Review points with 'hugin'  program... add horizontal and/or vertical 
points to ensure straight  horizon/vertical objects.
- Use the "optimization" to improve draft and  iterate 
modifying/adding/removing  some of the alignment points if  necessary
- Generate output "projection" images (or multilayer image)
-  Blend together with 'enblend'
- Fine-tune final image (rubber-stamp dust,  watermark,  etc).

-Cory


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