you got it

On 6/12/07, graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A hobby in other words <GRIN>.
>
> --
> graywolf
> http://www.graywolfphoto.com
> http://webpages.charter.net/graywolf
> "Idiot Proof" <==> "Expert Proof"
> -----------------------------------
>
>
> Gonz wrote:
> > Homebrewing could be alot of work, depending on how "fanatical" you
> > are about it.  But it could also be pretty easy.  I still buy most of
> > the beer I drink.  I homebrew mostly for fun, not to supply me with
> > beer.  Its not economical, unless you buy cheap ingredients.  The
> > taste can be phenomenal however, even in some instances, much better
> > than anything commercial I have ever had.  The downside is that it can
> > be time consuming, take up alot of space, and stink up your kitchen
> > with a strong hoppy smell.  Oh, of course, it can also make you buy
> > expensive gear, much like photography. ;)
> >
> >
> >
> > On 6/12/07, graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> I find it simpler to buy a beer I like. Especially these days when I can 
> >> not drink much because it reacts with my medications.
> >>
> >> --
> >> graywolf
> >> http://www.graywolfphoto.com
> >> http://webpages.charter.net/graywolf
> >> "Idiot Proof" <==> "Expert Proof"
> >> -----------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >> Gonz wrote:
> >>> Much of the flavor of beer is in suspended particles that you could
> >>> filter out to pretty much any degree if you'd like.  I homebrew, and I
> >>> filtered a lager once and it came out beautiful, and the taste did not
> >>> suffer from the filtering.  I basically used a coarse filter for it,
> >>> but I've heard other experienced homebrewers tell me that they have
> >>> used very fine filters and the beer comes out really clear, but
> >>> tasting like crap.
> >>>
> >>> I buy hops from all over the world to duplicate the style of the
> >>> particular beer I'm brewing as accurately as possible.  If you want to
> >>> get really into it, you can in many cases duplicate even the water by
> >>> starting out with pure distilled and adding to it the right mineral
> >>> proportions to create a replica of the water used at the brewery.
> >>> There are some people who do this and there are formulas out there for
> >>> water recipes.  I just use good bottled water and that seems to do the
> >>> trick.
> >>>
> >>> On 6/11/07, John Francis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >>>> On Mon, Jun 11, 2007 at 10:23:55PM -0400, Adam Maas wrote:
> >>>>> Cory Papenfuss wrote:
> >>>>>>> of most Washington/Oregon IPAs.  Beer should be clear.
> >>>>>>     "BOOO!  GET OFF THE STAGE!"
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>     *Light lagers* should be clear, but ales are perfectly acceptable
> >>>>>> with a bit of cloudiness IMO.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> -Cory
> >>>>>>
> >>>>> IPA's also should be clear and arguably so should Pale Ales, they're the
> >>>>> Light Lagers of Ale. Other Ales may be cloudy.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> -Adam
> >>>> I still disagree, most of the time.  Just about any British bitter, and
> >>>> significant percentage of other brews, had better be completely clear -
> >>>> free of yeast, chill haze, etc.  That doesn't mean the beer has to be
> >>>> transparent and colourless, of course - stouts, mild ales, etc. can be
> >>>> so dark that you can't see through them.
> >>>>
> >>>> A lot of bottled beers (Worthington White Shield, as just one example)
> >>>> throw a sediment in the bottle (as do many home-brewed beverages).
> >>>> Some people like to tip the sediment into their glass, while other
> >>>> people prefer to leave it in the bottle.   But cask-conditioned ales
> >>>> should run clear - that's why you rack them a few days ahead of time
> >>>> (and why finings are often added at the same time as the final hops).
> >>>> When you see sediment in your glass, it's time to change the barrel.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> --
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> >>>>
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