On 1 Nov 2001, at 14:11, Kent Gittings wrote:

> Acetone is the best lens cleaner. Make sure you get it pure not something
> like nail polish remover. That and Q-tips will get anything off a lens
> without harming the coatings. Acetone will require you to rub it with a
> clean dry Q-tip if the element is dirty enough so that the acetone  leaves a
> streak when you use the fluid. Kent Gittings

I'm with kent here, but I use Chemtronics Low Lint Cotton Tips which are like 
a long single ended Q-tip with a wooden shaft. The are specifically designed 
to clean optical assemblies and other equipment, I bought 1000 (in packs of 
100) for the equivalent of about US$30, not bad value. I have used acetone 
however it can cause damage to plastic or painted surfaces so I usually use 
pure isopropyl alcohol purchased at a local pharmacy. I have found the 
alcohol to be little less problematic with plastics but it can still affect some 
inks but both solvents seem to have similar capabilities WRT lens cleaning.

The method that I use is to initially saturate a swab and paint over the whole 
glass area to be cleaned then I get a dry swab and dry off the lens, you will 
most probably be able to see streaks on the glass, these are contaminants 
and are usually greasy so every step I use a new swab and even if it looks 
clean I put it aside now relegated to less some other demanding cleaning 
task in its second life.

I have found that often there is a build up of greasy gunk in the interface 
between the glass and the edge of the lens barrel, a lens might look clean 
then as the swab comes from the edge it will draw a great line across the 
coating, once the swab has contaminants on it it will leave streaks. The 
most effective method to finish the surface is to use the swab on its edge 
and gently roll it so that the remaining contaminants are dispersed across its 
surface rather than concentrated in one area.

Well I didn't intend to write this much but there it is, if you persist you will 
have a virtually absolutely clean surface and you can re-assemble your lens 
knowing that there isn't any gunk inside (or outside), you might go through 
10 or 20 swabs though. The last point is that when doing lens repair it is a 
good thing to have compressed air or nitrogen handy to blow the dust out of 
the lens before it is re-assembled :-)

Cheers,

Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications.html
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