Oops - this is what happens when I start responding to morning posts in the late afternoon w/out reading all the posts first. Sorry for being redundant. ;>}
-p -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: Metering Question Date: Fri, 07 Sep 2007 16:00:22 -0500 From: Paul Sorenson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Pentax-Discuss Mail List <[email protected]> Glen - For film you don't even need a dark room. Most developing tanks for roll film are "daylight developing" - once the film is loaded on reels and inside the tank w/the cover on they are light tight. As part of your rig buy a large-ish changing bag - it looks like a pull-over shirt w/elastic on the sleeves and a zipper bottom. http://www.adorama.com/BLCBL.html?searchinfo=changing%20bag&item_no=1 From the zipper end put your tank, the film reel(s), film cassette and a can opener inside and close it up. Slip your arms in through the elastic, open the cassette, load the film onto the reels and put them into the developing tank and cover it. Now you can remove the tank and do all your developing in the light. http://www.adorama.com/DKT235.html?searchinfo=developing%20tank&item_no=7 The tank cover will have another baffled cover on it through which you can pour in your liquids w/out letting in any light. You'll need a junk roll of film to perfect your skills at getting the film on the reel before you go for the "real thing". I found it was easier to load the film onto the reels in a changing bag than it was to work in a darkroom - something about being able to see where my hands were, I guess. -p Adam Maas wrote: > Developing film is easy. You need a tank, a couple spools to load film on, a > couple graduated cylinders for measuring chemicals, a thermometer, squeegee > and some film hangers for drying. Chemical-wise, developer (I use Rodinal and > TMax Developer), stop bath and fixer are all that's required. You also need a > dark closet or small room for loading the film into the tank, once loaded > everything else can be done in daylight > > Prints are more involved. Same chemicals(but paper developer instead of film > developer), but also needed are a darkroom, developing trays, enlarger, > contrast-control filters, paper, timer of some sort, darklight and a couple > other minor items. As my bathroom is too small for comfortably printing, I > don't bother and just scan & print digitally. > > -Adam > > > Glen Tortorella wrote: >> Thank you very much, Scott. I have been wanting to try developing my >> own prints, but I have feared doing so. I tend to be a >> perfectionist, and I fear disappointment. I do not have the >> equipment, either. What would I need? It would be great to have >> someone show me the correct way of doing it... >> >> Regards, >> Glen >> >> On Sep 7, 2007, at 11:06 AM, Scott Loveless wrote: >> >>> Adam Maas wrote: >>>> Glen, >>>> >>>> Mailers are a cheap option for getting E6 slide film processed. >>>> They are not economical for B&W. For cheap processing of Fuji >>>> Acros, do it yourself. I recommend Agfa or A&O Rodinal at 1:50 >>>> dilution for 12 minutes at 20C, 30 seconds initial agitation with >>>> 2 inversions per minute. Should run you about $0.60 or less per >>>> roll (including stop & fix) if you 1-shot the dev and reuse stop & >>>> fix. >>>> >>>> -Adam >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> I'll have to agree with Adam. For the price of having 8 or 10 >>> rolls of >>> B&W developed you could buy the chemicals and hardware to do it >>> yourself. Rodinal is a good choice for slower film. If you're >>> shooting >>> at a higher ISO you might want to consider HC-110. It's a good >>> general >>> purpose developer. It comes in a concentrate, much like Rodinal, and >>> will last a very long time. >>> >>> -- >>> Scott Loveless >>> http://www.twosixteen.com/fivetoedsloth/ >>> >>> >>> -- >>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >>> [email protected] >>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> > > > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
