My slightly premature conclusion is that it is not the brightness that is the problem with K20D. What happens is that the picture almost falls apart from the slightest movement. It looks like some kind of pixelation. My guess is that this is because of lack of processing power. Just a theory based one fifteen minutes of testing.
MaritimTim 2008/3/27, Godfrey DiGiorgi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>: > I haven't got a K20D to experiment with but see page 174 in the K20D > instruction manual. You can use 4x and 8x magnification for Live View > to assist in focusing. Unless the K20D normalizes the brightness of > the LCD during Live View, there's no reason to believe that the LCD > view will be any brighter than the optical viewfinder in low light, > and it will likely be darker. > > The Panasonic L1 has 4x and 10x available for magnified focusing > assist. I use 10x almost all the time, but when used with a long > focal length lens (like the 50-200) I sometimes bump it down to 4x as > the magnification is too great: the image becomes too jittery to see > clearly through infinitesmally small movements of the camera and > lens. The L1 does not normalize display brightness beyond a certain > point, however, so it becomes quite dark in dim lighting. I carry a > flashlight in my bag for critical focusing in dim circumstances. > > Thus far, for DSLRs with Live View, having tried personally the > Olympus E410, E510, E3, Nikon D300 and D3, the Panasonic L1 and L10 > have the best implementation so far. It's very usable and useful on > these two bodies. > > Godfrey > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
