The problem with an incident light meter is that the measurement should,
though it doesn't have to be, depending on conditions, be made from the
/subject/ location.
On 2/9/2011 10:18 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:
On Feb 9, 2011, at 10:05 PM, Walter Gilbert wrote:
Thanks for the explanation, Collin.
When Paul said to overexpose, I was actually thinking it sounded counter-intuitive --
that you'd want to under-expose in a snowy situation. But, it makes sense now that you
explained that the meter "assumes" a neutral grey.
So, I'm assuming that in extra-low-light situations, I'd want to under-expose
by a couple of stops in that case.
No. It's not amount the amount of light. The reason you overexpose snow or
anything else that fills your frame with white is simply because it's white and
very reflective. Like Collin said, the meter assumes everything is 18% gray and
reflects the amount of light that an 18% gray surface would reflect. So
shooting a white subject in low light, you would still overexpose. Shooting
something totally black, you would want to underexpose by about one stop, since
black doesn't reflect much light.. Again, using the gray card and exposing to
the meter reading is usually better in really tricky lighting situations.
Another alternative is an incident meter, which measures the light source
rather than the scene. As with the gray card, you don't have to correct for the
reflectivity of the subject when shooting with an incident meter.
Paul
Glad I found this out before getting too deep into the roll!
-- Walt
On 2/9/2011 8:40 PM, Collin Brendemuehl wrote:
No!!! Always overexpose snow by 2 stops.
Why?
Because an averaging meter expects a mid-gray tone.
The result will be gray snow unless you open it up,
either with the shutter, aperture, or both.
You can also change to iso32.
Sincerely,
Collin Brendemuehl
http://kerygmainstitute.org
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