Sounds like it could be done with a macro rail except for the folding bit? Cheers Ecke
2011/6/16 Joseph McAllister <[email protected]>: > Nice stereo pairs can be made with a little gadget I picked up long ago. With > it you shoot one image (full frame film or sensor) then this pantograph or > parallelograph moves the camera up and over to a position an eye's distance > away, on the same plane. > _______ _______ > \______\ to /_____/ (only it folds all the way down to flat in both > directions) It has a female socket on the bottom plate, and a male screw post > on the top, adjustable so you can snug the camera back up against the short > lip at the rear of the top plate assuring the same 90° to subject at both > ends. > > Print both images, screw your eyes apart so they blend the two into a 3D > image. It takes practice. Many hours on a photo interpretation table with > similar aerial pairs taught me to do away with the special stereo lenses used > on the light table, unless I needed more power to look more closely at > something. You can also view the pair on a monitor by viewing two up in > Lightroom or Aperture. Adjust the size of the viewing window to make it > easier to blend the two images. Too far apart and it can't be done. > > Joseph McAllister > [email protected] > > THE SENILITY PRAYER : > Grant me the senility to forget the people > I never liked anyway, > The good fortune to run into the ones I do, and > The eyesight to tell the difference. > > On Jun 9, 2011, at 08:36 , John Francis wrote: > >> On Thu, Jun 09, 2011 at 04:02:44PM +1000, Anthony Farr wrote: >>>> >>>> I know it won't work with digital because of the sensor dimension ... >>>> bummer. >>>> >>> >>> Are you sure of that? Doesn't it just split the frame down the middle >>> into a left and right image? Does the format size or the field of >>> view make any difference? >> >> Yes, it makes a difference, but not one impossible to overcome. >> >> The adapter is designed to produce left and right images covering the >> same field of view on one frame of film. Just using that on a smaller >> sensor will lose the left third of the field of view from one half, >> and the right third of the field of view from the other. This means >> the only part of the field of view in both parts is the central third. >> >> The way to compensate for that is simple; use a lens which covers the >> same field of view on the smaller sensor as the lens for which the >> adapter was designed when it is used on a full-frame sensor. >> >> I believe the adapter was designed for use with a 50mm or 55mm lens. >> That means you should use something like a 35mm lens on APS-C, >> I'd expect anything in the 31mm - 40mm range would work just fine. >> >> >> >> -- >> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List >> [email protected] >> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net >> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and >> follow the directions. > > > -- > PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List > [email protected] > http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net > to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow > the directions. > -- PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List [email protected] http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow the directions.
