What you're describing sounds almost like auto ISO in program mode.
The K20D works this way, put the camera in P mode. Now the front and
rear wheels change Aperture and Shutter speed as expected. Press the OK
button, (I expect though don't know but I bet on the K7-K5 this works
with the same with the ISO button), now the front wheel changes the ISO
or if you don't touch the front wheel the ISO changes to match the
select aperture and shutter speed.
If you've chanted the ISO with the front wheel this way to get an
instantaneous correct ISO for the current f stop and shutter speed by
holding in the OK button and pressing the green button.
I've never used it this way but I play with buttons a lot.
On 7/19/2011 8:14 PM, Miserere wrote:
On 18 July 2011 16:44, Larry Colen<[email protected]> wrote:
The other night, a friend was trying to get some shots with his new D7000 at an
after hours dance. Helping him out I got a chance to play with it a bit and to
compare the two. Without my being able to RTFM the D7000 was at a severe
disadvantage performance wise.
The first thing that you notice between the two is the difference in heft. The
D7000 is a lot lighter, in comparison the K-5 feels like a solidly built
professional camera.
Since it was dark, and people don't like a light being shined in their face
when dancing, we turned off the autofocus assist lights. The K-5 with 31/1.8
autofocused a lot better in that light than did the D7000 with a 50/1.4.
The lighting was very uneven so rather than manual, I was shooting in TAv mode,
in order to get the best ISO I could. The D7000 doesn't have TAv mode.
I could not figure out how to select a custom white point for setting color
balance on the D7000.
With the 50/1.4 the D7000 does not have VR/SR/IS.
With many of the UI buttons on the left side of the back, almost every function
of the D7000 requires both hands on the camera.
I couldn't find the autofocus lockout, and that made the lowlight work a bit
more difficult.
Apart from some quick chimping, I haven't had a chance to look at any of the
actual photos from either camera, and I realize that is what really matters. I
also understand that so much of the usability of a system depends on
familiarity. I hope to get together with Charles sometime in the future and get
a chance to learn his camera better. In the mean time, despite the obvious
caveats, I'm pleased to note that for me the K-5 seems to be the much better
camera.
I expect that there are many use profiles where the D7000 would work a lot
better. For example, any time I'd need to use a speedlight.
Anyways, it was very interesting getting the chance to compare the two.
--
Larry Colen [email protected] sent from i4est
Nikons don't have a TAv *mode*, but they do have the capability (at
least the higher end models do) to replicate it. I believe that while
in M mode you can activate Auto ISO, which is pretty much TAv. But
Nikon go one step further and provide an unbroken usage (TAv in its
current implementation is broken) in that you can set a minimum
shutter speed, and when light levels fall such that you'd need shutter
speeds slower than this minimum, the camera keeps it at that speed an
instead achieves proper exposure by increasing ISO. This may be in Av
mode and separate from M mode + Auto ISO. Maybe someone with a high
end Nikon can properly explain this.
As far as TAv goes, it's broken because if I set f/4 and 1/200s and
step out from inside a building to a sunny street, the ISO value will
start blinking *100* like mad telling me it can't cope. If I take a
photo it will be overexposed. This is broken. Has been since the K10D
was released in 2006. I've been complaining about it since 2007 (yes,
I even told Ned).
The fix is extremely simple: Add an option in the Custom Menu where
you can choose Off, Aperture, or Shutter Priority for TAv. If you
choose Aperture Priority then the camera will increase its shutter
speed once it reaches ISO 100 so as not to overexpose. In Shutter
Priority it will close the aperture, and if it's Off, then it will
continue to act as it does now, because I'm sure somewhere there is
someone who wants to have overexposed photos when shooting TAv.
I think the Fuji X100 has a correct way of dealing with this issue as
I've read about being able to tell at what minimum shutter speed you
want Auto ISO to kick in, which is something similar to a non-broken
TAv.
OK, getting off my soapboax and shutting up now. It's just that I
really like TAv but there are so many times I can't use it because I'm
going in and out of shade and don't want to be preoccupied with
overexposure.
Cheers,
—M.
\/\/o/\/\ --> http://WorldOfMiserere.com
http://EnticingTheLight.com
A Quest for Photographic Enlightenment
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Where's the Kaboom? There was supposed to be an Earth-shattering Kaboom!
--Marvin the Martian.
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