Quoting Paul Ewins <[email protected]>:
On 26/06/2012, at 10:29 AM, Ed Keeney wrote:
Is there a simple step-by-step process you follow?
I am studying photography part-time at a local college and here is
their preferred method:
1. Lay the mat on top of the backing board (foam core or an uncut
sheet of mat board) in the same orientation as it would be when
completed.
2. Now flip the mat upwards onto its back, as if you were changing
months on a calendar.
3. Butt the mat and the backing board together along the top edge
and then run a length of tape all the way along the top of the seam
to join them.
4. Now flip the mat back again so that it is in the same state as in
1 - your tape join should now be inside.
5. Place your print inside and gently move it around until it is
correctly located in the window of the mat.
6. Put something soft (so it doesn't scratch) but heavy on the print
to prevent it moving.
7. Flip the mat back, as in step 2.
8a. If your print has a border: run a piece of tape along the top
edge of the print to secure it to the backing board. You are done.
8b. if your print has no border: run a piece of tape along the back
of the top edge of the print, then flip the mat back and press down
on it to stick the tape to the back of the mat. Then carefully turn
the whole assembly over so that the backing board is on tip and open
it up again. Carefully push along the tape to properly secure it to
the back of the mat. Close it up again, you are done.
The idea of securing the print by a single piece of tape is so that
any expansion or contraction of the mount or print doesn't cause
buckling since the print is free to move. Making all the joins along
the top edges allows the print to hang and thus have the best chance
of remaining flat.
I don't know what I did wrong but the 'free hanging' technique just
didn't work for me. Maybe the backing board and print expanded or
contracted at different rates but, whatever the reason, small
undulations developed in the print which made the framed photo look
unattractive unless viewed directly from the front. I've gone back to
gluing the print to the backing using acid free spray adhesive. I'm
in the process of framing and mounting another set of prints so I
might try the free hanging method again.
Note that:
All materials should be acid free
The best tape to use is "framer's tape"
I buy my mats and backing boards pre-cut in small batches from an
on-line seller. It is cheaper and gives better results than trying
to cut my own mats.
Do you have a link to that seller?
Cheers
Brian
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://lyons-ryan.org/southernlight/
If the print is to be handled (e.g. judging) then I usually stick
the mat down as follows:
1. Flip back the mat as in step 2 & 7 above.
2. Run a strip of clear packaging tape along both sides of the mat
and the backing board from the middle to the bottom so that when you
close it back up the strips on the back of the mat will be in
contact with the strips on the front of the backing board.
3. Attach a piece of double sided tape on the packing tape on each
side of the backing board. If you have a large mount then use two
pieces per side.
4. Close it up again and press on the edges so that the double sided
tape adheres to the packing tape on the back of the mat.
5. You are done.
The point of the packing tape is that you can separate the mount
again at a later date without ruining it because the packing tape
adheres much more strongly to the mat and backing board than the
double sided tape adheres to the packing tape. Just run a metal
ruler or slim blade in between the mat and the backing board and the
double sided tape should just peel away from the packaging tape.
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